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Decorations have begun going up around town and, at this time of year, La Olla offers the complete dining experience…

Skeleton in pink skirt and feather boa seated on a bench

A warm welcome from the hostess.

Skeleton with sombrero hanging on wall.

Waiters standing ready to take your order.

Day-glo orange butterfly skeleton hanging in a tree.

And, una mariposa hanging out, ready to wish you “¡buen provecho!”

Señor del Rayo

6 AM this morning, I awoke to fireworks and riotously clanging church bells coming from the cathedral, calling my attention to the October 23rd annual fiesta of Señor del Rayo.  Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), it is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.

This image of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century.  It was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof.  Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this statue.  Un milagro!

The statue became known as Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), eventually was moved to his own chapel in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.  However, on October 21, in anticipation of his special day, the statue is moved to the main altar of the cathedral, the cathedral is filled with lilies (the scent “breathtaking”), and the faithful flock to pray before Señor del Rayo.

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Flowers are daily sprayed with water, to keep them fresh… BUT, as the signs say, please do not uproot and carry them away.

Name that flag

Another brilliant blue sky day…

Purple, white, and red flag flying atop Santo Domingo

But where did that purple, white, and red flag on top of Santo Domingo de Guzmán come from???

End of rainy season?

Hmmm, no rain for a week, cool nights, and warm, clear blue-sky days.  Even concrete boxes beg for a photo…

Concrete boxy buildings against clear blue sky.
I’m thinking the rainy season has ended!

Meeting Points…

Strolling up Macedonio Alcalá on Sunday, I stumbled on an exhibit and workshop being set up in the middle of this walking street, courtesy of Puntos de Encuentro, Primer Festival de Artes Visuales Oaxaca 2011 (Meeting Points, the First Visual Arts Festival, Oaxaca 2011).

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Reason number ??? (I’ve lost count) why I love Oaxaca!!!

World Food Day

October 16 is World Food Day, as declared by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. A headline from the front page of today’s Noticias announces, Oaxaca: 77%, con hambre, meaning 77% of the Oaxacan population have problems with receiving adequate nutrition.

Mother seated on sidewalk, holding child, begging.
The article further explains that according to the National Institute of Medical Sciences and Nutrition (INNSZ), at 34%, Oaxaca is the Mexican state with the highest rate of child malnutrition. The consequences are children who suffer from iron deficiency anemia, fatigue, apathy, extreme thinness, spots on the face, breathing problems, infections, and diarrhea.

Update:  A couple more articles…

 

 

Global Day of Action

A Global Day of Action, in solidarity with Occupy Wall St. has been called for tomorrow, October 15.  According to a current tally, demonstrations will be held in 950+ US cities and 80+ countries, the latter including Mexico City.   Who knows what will unfold in Oaxaca, where occupations, marches, and road blocks are an almost daily event.

Si no te oyen haz que te vean, #15o, monumento a la revolucion, 12 hrs., Ciudad de MexicoConfession:  This is personal… I’m one of the 99% and lost my job as a result of the economic collapse brought about by the voracious, unconscionable, and unbridled greed of US capitalism.  Heck, even in my old ‘hood, more than 200 ‘Occupy Marin’ protesters demonstrated in front of Bank of America a few days ago.  It’s one of the few times, I wish I was still in El Norte, so I could participate.

BTW, the poster art and slogans coming out of this movement are awesome!  Take a look at the following sites:

If you don’t hear us, can you see us???

Día de la Raza in Oaxaca

Today is Día de la Raza (Day of the Race) in Mexico. A stroll around town revealed…

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Like almost everyday in Oaxaca, La Raza are working incredibly hard!

Yesterday, a couple of gal pals and I headed south of the city to San Martín Tilcajete.

Colorfully painted buildings
They were in search of alebrijes (hand-carved and intricately painted wooden creatures).  We shared the roads…

Herd of goats and goat herders on a dirt road

and the sidewalks with local inhabitants.

Green grasshopper with yellow and black markings on sidewalk.

With real critters like this, it’s no wonder the carvers and painters of San Martín Tilcajete are inspired to imagine and create the beautiful and fanciful.

Intricately painted wooden bookmarks topped with colorful creatures.

I hadn’t planned to buy anything, but couldn’t resist a colibrí refrigerator magnet, to add to my growing collection of hummingbirds… both real and imagined!

Brightly painted wooden refrigerator magnet

While there, we discovered San Martín Tilcajete will be holding an exposition at the end of the month to showcase, promote, and (hopefully) sell Oaxacan folk art.

Poster for the exposition of Oaxacan folk art on Oc. 28 - Nov. 3

In addition, the Oaxaca Lending Library will be presenting a slide show on Oaxacan Folk Art on October 26.

A shell of his former self

Remember Argiope from 2-1/2 weeks ago?

Orb weaver spider on web in Stalpelia gigantea.

Turns out, she isn’t as sweet as she looks.  Today, HE came, HE saw, and SHE conquered!

Female argiope and shell of male hanging above her.

Leaving him a shell of his former self…

Shell of male Argiope suspended above the female in web.

Within a half an hour, she had finished him off… leaving not a trace that he had ever existed.

Female Argiope hanging in web alone.

And, she was alone again, naturally!  Alone, that is, until their offspring hatch…

Stay Hungry. Stay Foolish.

I’m an Apple person… from the Apple II days… even before I worked at a library funded by Apple employee #5, Rod Holt.  I’m writing this on my MacBook Pro and I just upgraded from my ancient (by computer carbon dating) iPod Shuffle (max 100 tunes) to a new 64 GB  iPod Touch.

Photo:  SteveJobs 1955-2011

Like most of the world, I’m incredibly saddened by the loss of creative genius, Steve Jobs.  So, when my neighbor proposed going up to the newly opened iShop Mixup (it’s what the official Apple stores are called in Mexico) in Colonia Reforma, to see what was happening, I enthusiastically agreed.  I’d been watching CNN International and their coverage of iPad virtual flames and real flower memorials in front of Apple Stores from Cupertino, California to China.  With camera in hand, I thought there would be a great photo-op, blog material, and a chance to pay tribute to the person who had eased my non-techie brain’s entry into computer being, who put the end-user at the forefront, and who encouraged new grads to “Stay hungry. Stay foolish.”

Alas, there was nothing… no flowers… no black ribbon over the doorway… no photos of Steve Jobs… no virtual candles flickering on the iPads, MacBook Airs, and iPhones… not even a tribute posted on the Oaxaca iShop Mixup Facebook page.  When I returned home a couple of hours ago, I posted the Spanish language version of  Steve’s 2005 commencement speech at Stanford and the front page article (en español) from CNN México on their Facebook page.

Why nothing?  Perhaps it’s because the store is new and hasn’t become a center for Apple users.  But, I think it’s also because…  according to The Oaxaca Fund Initiative, “Over 76% of its residents live in extreme poverty, lacking basic necessities such as food, water, education and healthcare.”  Staying hungry isn’t a just metaphor.

A pause in the action…

Sunday, Oaxaca blogger buddy Chris (Oaxaca-the-year-after) and I returned to Teotitlán del Valle for the Danza de la Pluma.  Another day awash in sights and sounds.  As I discussed in July’s post, Danza de la Pluma, it is a multi-layered ritual reenactment of the Conquest.  And, like the Passion Play in Oberammergau, Germany, the Danza de la Pluma lasts 7-8 hours!

Obviously, the performers occasionally need to take a break…

Subalterno laying down on the plaza

Soldaditos, need nourishment after all that marching around…

Littlest Soldadito munching on a snack

Banners need to chill on a chair…

Banner propped up on a chair

Cortes needs to take a breather from all that conquering…

Cortes resting on his throne.

Danzantes need some male bonding time…

2 Danzantes walking together

Their feathered headdresses need time off for good behavior…

Danzante feathered headdress

Malinche and Doña Marina need to share some giggles…

Malinche and Doña Marina walking and smiling together

And, even tubas need a nap…

Tuba laying on the ground.

There are no small parts…

To borrow from Russian actor and director, Konstantin Stanislavsky, “there are no small parts, only [very] small actors.”  And the children of  Teotitlán del Valle begin learning their lines at a very young age.

They were in full view Friday night as the convite (parade) of unmarried young women and girls opened the multi-day Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario.

Very young Zapotec girl in traditional dress.

Young boys, carrying marmotas led off the parade, that began at the pueblo’s Sangre de Cristo church.

Very young Zapotec boy carrying a small marmota

They were followed by traditional indigenous drums and a band.

Band with marmota in background

Then the stars of the evening took center stage.  From the oldest to the youngest, all were wearing the traditional red woolen skirt (woven in the village, of course!) and blouses painstakingly and lovingly hand embroidered.

Young Zapotec girl carrying canasta on her head

Arms above head, balancing their canastas, they wound their way through the slick (it was drizzling) cobblestone streets of the village for an hour, before eventually returning to the church.

Procession of young Zapotec women carrying canastas on their heads while a little white dog watches

I don’t know how they did it; even the dogs were in awe!

Sunday’s events to follow…

Hanging out in Teotitlán

Hanging out In Teotitlán del Valle…

Male and female effigies hanging from window grate.

On a rainy day…

Weaver at loom painted on side of building:

Waiting for a parade to pass me by…

Tops canastas and marmota visible above wall, with mountains in background

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Going green, Oaxaca style

At various times in her past, La Ciudad de Oaxaca has been referred to as the “Emerald City” and “City of Jade,” because of the green cantera stone used to construct her buildings and pave her sidewalks.  On rainy days when sun seems to magically appear, I’m tempted to look behind closed doors for the Wizard of Oz.

Cantera sidewalk

Today a new kind of green is catching on.  No, not money, green technology — though money most certainly figures into the equation.

Several, mostly international, companies have established wind turbine farms in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec over the past several years.  And, anyone who has driven along the carretera (highway) down there, can understand why.  However, I would be remiss not to mention, as a NACLA article explains, La Ventosa is a controversial endeavor.

Wind turbines along the highway on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec

Less controversial, was a two-day conference, billed as the first International Forum on Renewable Energies, held this week in the “City of Jade.”  Organized by the Technological University of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca (UTVC) and the Statistics and Information Center for Development (CIEDD) of the State Government, its main objective was to raise awareness, share knowledge, and promote further research, dissemination, and development.

While panels, discussions, lectures, and workshops were held in the Cultural Center of Santo Domingo, outside, at the intersection of Constitución and 5 de Mayo, exhibits by the university students were set up for conference attendees and passers-by to see.

Small model of a solar thermal house

According to the information posted, above is a prototype solar thermal house, that harnesses the sun’s energy and utilizes “healthy for the environment” building materials of natural fibers to provide durability and thermal-insulation.

And then there was this one… close to this rooftop gardener’s heart:

Composting rectangular box

The project explains vermiculture biotechnology was virtually unknown here until recently.   California red worms were used to convert waste from San Pablo Huixtepec and obtain a dark and rich loam.

Rich soil in composting box

I confess, I coveted it!  However, I really am quite pleased with the results I’m getting by freezing my green kitchen waste for several days and then mixing it with the, less than ideal, soil purchased from a local vivero (nursery).  In a week, the organic matter has completely broken down and I’m left with great potting soil.