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Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category

I read the news today oh boy…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Violence, tagged , , , , , , , on May 21, 2013| 2 Comments »

How about exchanging guns for guitars?

Woman pointing rifle

Man pointing guitar at TV

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From the walls of Oaxaca.

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Santa María Tlahuitoltepec in B&W

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , on May 15, 2013| Leave a Comment »

The Fiesta de Mayo in Santa María Tlahuitoltepec lasted three days, though we were only there for a few hours on day two.  There was to be a rodeo that night — a corral had been set up and bulls were arriving as we were leaving.

A timeless quality… but, not to be mistaken for being frozen in time.  We are already making plans to return.

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Into the Mixe

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on May 14, 2013| 11 Comments »

Saturday, we drove up into the Sierra Norte, to the Mixe region of the state of Oaxaca.  Our destination was Santa María Tlahuitoltepec and its Fiesta de Mayo.  We had been attracted to their unique women’s traje (costume) by the work of one of the vendors at an artesanía feria in the city a couple of months ago.  She invited us to the fiesta and so we went.

After winding our way up mountain roads filled with switchbacks and potholes, we turned off on a dirt road for the final ten minutes of our seventy-six mile journey from the city.  We had climbed from 5,100 feet to over 7,800 feet above sea level on our three-hour drive up into pines.  The name Tlahuitoltepec is made up of two Nahuatl words — Tlahuitol translates as “arched” and Tepec as “hill.”  I can attest, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec is definitely built on a (very steep) “arched hill.”  This is the same village that, at the end of September 2010, was hit with a devastating landslide that killed 11 residents, following record rainfall.  And, as we drove up to the village, engineering work to repair and reinforce the hillside and road was visible and ongoing.

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We weren’t exactly sure where we were going, stopped to ask, and were told to follow the signs to “el centro.”  Our first indication that we were headed in the right direction was the sound, quickly followed by the sight, of a band playing and walking in the same direction we were.  It was one of three youth bands we saw and heard during our brief stay; music is obviously very important in this remote mountain village.  The pueblo plays host to the Center for Musical Training and Development of Mixe Culture and according to this article, an estimated 70% of the population can read music and many who can’t, play by ear.

And, along with music comes dance.  Santa María Tlahuitoltepec will be participating in this year’s Guelaguetza in July — and its Ceremonia del Tepache is featured in one of the promotional videos.  While there, we watched as a youth exhibition group performed three traditional dances to the appreciative crowd that filled the stands of the municipal court.

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The uniqueness of each village never ceases to delight and impress me.  You know when you are there, because you couldn’t be anywhere else.

Check out Oaxaca-The Year After for more photos from Saturday’s excursion.

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Never a dull wall in Oaxaca

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , on May 9, 2013| Leave a Comment »

And now a return to the amazing street art from the walls near Calle de Melchor Ocampo and Calle de La Noria…

Never a dull moment or wall in Oaxaca!

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New day dawning

Posted in Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , on May 7, 2013| 7 Comments »

Saturday afternoon, I returned to Teotitlán del Valle with my neighbor Marga for that evening’s world premiere of “La Festividad de los Muertos,” a film documenting Day of the Dead in Teotitlán (more about that in an upcoming post).  Transportation back to the city late at night would have been challenging, so it was an ideal excuse to finally spend the night in one of my favorite villages.  Marga booked the last room at Casa Elena and I stayed across the street at Las Granadas (both recommended).

Sunday morning, I was awakened by roosters crowing, burros braying, cohetes (all bang, no bling fireworks) exploding, and the sound of a band playing.  Breakfast wasn’t to be served until 8:30 am, so I went for an early morning walk.

An enchanting way to begin the day.

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All in a day’s hike

Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , on May 4, 2013| 7 Comments »

Yesterday (May 3) was Día de la Santa Cruz and in Mexico it is the feast day of construction workers.  Crosses are erected on building sites and decorated.  The tradition has its origins with the guilds during the colonial era.

However, in Teotitlán del Valle, tradition calls for hiking up to the top of El Picacho.  A tall aqua colored wooden cross stands at the top of the peak.

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There were two crosses, but apparently one was hit by lightning a week or two ago.  It lies in splintered pieces below where it stood.

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Mountain and custom beckoned, and so we headed out to Teotitlán yesterday morning to climb the mountain.  The trek began and our eyes were on the prize as we passed by irrigated fields…

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Along the steep and winding trail, there were signs…

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in Zapoteco.

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Bromeliads and other epiphytes clung to branches.

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All along the way, the views were spectacular.

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As we climbed, grew smaller and smaller.

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And, our destination grew closer and closer.

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Almost two hours later (we stopped a lot!), we encountered the tethered burros that brought the tamales, aguas, and cervesas that awaited us at the top.

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Besides sustenance, there were fireworks…

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and expansive and even more spectacular views.

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There were parents, teens, toddlers, abuelos…

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and abuelas.

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Muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle, who never fail to warmly welcome us and, again, generously offered us food and drink.

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They are very special people who live in a very special place.

FYI:  The trip down took less than an hour, I returned home exhausted, sore, sunburned (even though I’d slathered on sunscreen), and thoroughly exhilarated.

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Celebrating children and culture

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on April 30, 2013| 8 Comments »

Today is Día de los Niños (Children’s Day) and it’s a big deal here.  Oaxaca began her celebrations days ago.  The 6th Festival of Children’s Story Telling opened on Saturday, yesterday an exibition of traditional toys (Colección Hanni Sager Juguete tradicional) had its inauguration at the Museo del Palacio, and Friday, the Guelaguetza Infantil calenda filled the streets from Santo Domingo to the Basilica de la Soledad.

As several bands played, the children from Oaxaca’s preschools wearing the traditional costumes from the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca waited, posed, walked, danced, and threw candy to the appreciative crowds gathered on the sidewalks along the ten-block long route.  (Note, some of the little girls already practicing holding canastas (baskets) on their heads!)

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Parents and teachers, many also wearing traje from the Cañada, Costa, Istmo, Mixteca, Papaloapan, Sierra Norte, Sierra Sur, and the Valles Centrales regions, proudly walked alongside the children.  Vive Oaxaca concluded their article,

With such events from the early years of life are taught to love our Oaxacan culture, traditions, music and preserve the best legacy we have: our roots. Congratulations to the teachers and parent to correctly perform with great momentum this holiday culture.  [Google translation]

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Where is everyone?

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , on April 28, 2013| 2 Comments »

Plaza de la Danza…

Microphone

Microphone, speakers, and pigeon…

2 speakers on stands

We are all here…

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Where is everyone???

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Hummingbird of the Mixteca

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Language, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on April 26, 2013| 5 Comments »

Wednesday in the Mixteca…

cement block building "Fabrica Marmol" "El Colibrí"

How could I resist?  Photo, yes.  Dining, no.  We had already eaten and so were not tempted to try Restaurant El Colibrí, across the street.  However, still scratching my head about the relationship between marble (marmol) and hummingbird (colibrí).

Concrete block building with sign, Fabrica Marmol, El Colibrí

This librarian couldn’t resist doing a little research.  According to Wikipedia, the hummingbird in Aztec culture was, “emblematic for their vigor, energy, and propensity to do work along with their sharp beaks that mimic instruments of weaponry, bloodletting, penetration, and intimacy.”  Hmmm…  the tools and strength needed by a marble mason.  Now, it’s beginning to make sense.

(Thanks Chris for stopping so I could take the above photos.)

And now a song from the Mixteca, “Chikirriyó’i” (“El Colibrí”) (The Hummingbird):

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Matria, 3 weeks later

Posted in Agriculture, Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Environment, Gardens, People, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on April 22, 2013| Leave a Comment »

On this Earth Day, I thought I’d post photos of the Matria, Jardín Arterapéutico project.  These were taken 3 weeks after my previous visit.  Despite 90+° (F) temperatures since the garden was planted, it is thriving and very few plants have been lost.

The key to the garden’s success?  Megan Glore and her team of volunteers are listening to what the plants are telling them and responding accordingly — just as we should all be doing with Mother Earth.

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Like a bird on a wire…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on April 15, 2013| 4 Comments »

More from the wall art at Calle Melchor Ocampo and La Noria.  I can’t help thinking of Leonard Cohen’s, Bird on a Wire.

Wall with painting of birds sitting on a wire

Like a bird on a wire,
Like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.

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Sounding the alarm

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Internet, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on April 14, 2013| 6 Comments »

This post is especially for other WordPress bloggers.  I don’t know about you, but I’ve had problems with WordPress in the last 24+ hours, including not receiving any Daily Digests since April 12.  So, who knows if this will reach you…

According to a post at ars technica, “Huge attack on WordPress sites could spawn never-before-seen super botnet.  Ongoing attack from >90,000 computers is creating a strain on Web hosts, too.”  Forbes has a good article on “How To Avoid The Coming Botnet.”

artist: sanez

artist: sanez

Wall art from mural on Calle Prof. M. Aranda, next to Hotel Azucenas.

h/t Chris re the WordPress attack.

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Carnaval, desaturated

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on April 10, 2013| 4 Comments »

Sometimes color seems like a distraction, so an experiment in de-saturation from the last day of Carnaval in Teotitlán del Valle.

The eyes have it
Dancing the jarabe is serious
Something in the way she moves
I’m coming, darlings
Shouldering a basket of offerings
Let me think about it
A jumble of offerings
The women watch
Shade, por favor
Bringing the xicapextle
Bucket full of blessings
Viejos with snake on a cane

For some outstanding up-close and full color photos, head over to Oaxaca-The Year After.

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Carnaval, el último día

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on April 9, 2013| 3 Comments »

Friday we returned for another extraordinary day — the last day of Carnival.

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Again, muchisimas gracias to the gracious and generous people of Teotitlán del Valle.

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Carnaval, el primer día

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on April 6, 2013| 2 Comments »

I’m playing catch-up with blog posts.  After the Good Friday Procession of Silence, I thought life would slow down a little.  That’s what’s happened in years past — I caught up on the “to do” list on the home-front, leisurely plowed through the hundreds and hundreds of photos from Semana Santa, did a little research and a lot of thinking about what I’d just seen and experienced, and then crafted a few blog posts.

That was before we found out that Teotitlán del Valle celebrates 5-days of Carnival after Easter, not before Lent!  A little levity after the solemnity of Semana Santa and in one of our favorite places was not to be resisted.  And so, blogger buddy Chris and I set out on Monday afternoon in search of the house in Sección 1 (the village is divided into 5 geographic areas) that was hosting the daytime fiesta that precedes the evening festivities in the Municipal Plaza.

Chihuahua #1
Chihuahua # 1 & 2
A few of the guys in the band
Our hosts and hostesses
Viejo #1
Viejo #2
Who is that masked man?
Oh, what a devil!
Watching the hilarity at the house
Viejos on parade
Joining the procession
Always mezcal!
Watching at the Municipal Plaza
Another masked man & woman(?)
Viejo presenting poleo to munical officials

We returned yesterday for the Sección 5 fiesta, so more to come.  Now it’s off to Tlacolula for the Nieve, Mezcal y Gastronomia Festival.

FYI:  For a more detailed explanation of this Carnival celebration and photos from last year by a professional photographer, check out Ann Murdy’s website.

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