The walls of Oaxaca continue to talk.
Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category
Just because…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on April 1, 2014| 4 Comments »
Good Samaritans
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged agua fresca, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Horchata, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on March 30, 2014| 4 Comments »
If you are in Oaxaca and it’s the fourth Friday of Lent, it must be Día de la Samaritana (AKA, el Día de las Aguas) — a uniquely Oaxacan celebration. It is inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament: At noon, a tired and, apparently, thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
By noon, this past Friday in Oaxaca, the thermometer had already reached 90º F in El Centro Histórico and people of all ages, from small children to abuelos, were already lined up at bougainvilla and palm decorated booths in front of churches, schools, and businesses for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free aguas. It wasn’t just plain water they were waiting on, it was for divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits and flowers — jamaica, horchata, chilacayota, tamarindo, sandia, and others. However in front of the churches, prior to the offering of aguas, there was a reenactment of Jesus and the Samaritana, as well as a priestly blessing — and an article in Noticias reported that, given the blazing hot sun, some in the crowd became a little impatient.
All were eventually served and the streets were filled with smiling people drinking a rainbow of aguas. Within an hour the serving pots, pitchers, bowls, and buckets were empty and all that remained were garbage containers filled to overflowing with plastic cups.
By the way, talking to my friend Sam, who teaches at Universidad José Vasconcelos de Oaxaca, they had an aguas frescas contest — memorable combinations of watermelon with strawberries and lime; atole with tuna nieve; and coconut with strawberries. However, I was informed the day’s winner was the piña colada — alas, minus the rum, I’m thinking.
Day in the life
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Parks & Plazas, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cocina Economica Isabel, Día de la Samaritana, huevos divorciados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political rally, PRI, Tuna band, Viernes del Llano on March 28, 2014| 6 Comments »
Eight hours today in Oaxaca…
Tuna band in Llano Park
A queen and her consort at Viernes del Llano
Huevos Divorciados at Cocina Economica Isabel
Día de la Samaritana agua on the Alcalá
PRI march and rally at Plaza de la Danza
Life in three languages
Posted in Culture, Education, Language, People, tagged Bernadina Hernandez, California, ethnolinguistic groups, Hollister, indigenous peoples, language, Mexico, Mixteca, native tongues, Oaxaca, Triqui, video on March 26, 2014| Leave a Comment »
As I’ve mentioned before, Oaxaca is one of the most indigenous and (no surprise) one of the poorest states in Mexico. And, the Triqui of the Mixteca region of Oaxaca are some of the state’s poorest residents. They have recently come to the attention of sports lovers, as a result of the heartwarming story of their youth basketball team, dubbed the Barefoot champions of the mountains.
However, while their success story makes us feel good, it is rare. Political violence and poverty continue to chase the Triqui out of their beautiful and ancient mountain communities in search of a better future for their families. And, discrimination continues to follow them into el norte. To add to the strikes against them wherever they go, Spanish is not their native language — the state of Oaxaca is home to 16 distinct ethnolinguistic groups, with Triqui being one. And so, the story of Bernadina Hernandez and her grassroots efforts in Hollister, California should be known, appreciated, and celebrated.
A little background information…
- Isolated by Language
- Indigenous Mexicans in California Agriculture
- Oaxacan indigenous migrants: Challenges navigating the US systems
Muchisimas gracias a Jody for turning me on to Bernadina’s story.
Speaking of danzantes
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, demonstrations, Mexico, Oaxaca, penachos, photographs, photos, protests, San Bartolo Coyotepec on March 24, 2014| 8 Comments »
Reason number 579 why I love Oaxaca…
Today was the first day of a way-too-short first time visit to Oaxaca by a couple of California gal pals — an orientation walk through El Centro was the order of the day. And what did we stumble upon in front of the Government Palace? Danzantes waiting to perform a couple of the dances from the Danza de la Pluma.
They began dancing and I flashed on Saturdays’ blog post, Danzantes in training. However, these guys definitely weren’t apprentices — they had the steps and jumps down WITH those heavy and seemingly unwieldy penachos on their heads — and the crowd cheered.
The danzantes and most of their gathered audience were from San Bartolo Coyotepec, about 15 km south of the city. It’s a village known for the artisans who make black pottery. However, along with the band and dancers, there were banners and protestors.
According to this article (in Spanish), “they arrived at the presidential palace in the main square of the city to demand the replacement of the elections because the process was considered seedy and does not represent the will of the community.”
Culture and politics… I couldn’t have arranged a more quintessential Oaxaca experience, if I had tried. And my friends, what did they think? They loved it all!
Danzantes in training
Posted in Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Feather dance, folk dancing, Mexico, Oaxaca, video on March 22, 2014| 8 Comments »
This morning, as I was getting ready to go to my local mercado, I heard the unmistakable sounds of the Danza de la Pluma (feather dance). I’ve seen it often enough in Teotitlán del Valle to know the music. While it is performed throughout the valley and is always one of the big hits during July’s Guelaguetza, Teotitlán del Valle is one of only two villages where it is performed as a religious ritual during their three major yearly festivals.
As I approached the Plaza de la Danza, the music got louder and louder. Once there, I looked down to see 75 – 100 dancers in jeans and t-shirts practicing one of the (forty-one) dances of the Danza de la Pluma. They were danzantes in training from various folkloric groups in the valley of Oaxaca.
As you can see from the video, the footwork is complex and the steps require a lot of stamina. And, just wait until they put on the penachos (headdresses)!
I often wonder and worry that the traditional dances will eventually be lost. Today’s encounter with these young dancers gave me hope.
New gals in town
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, street art, urban art, Virgin of Guadalupe, wall art on March 14, 2014| 2 Comments »
Arnulfo Mendoza Ruiz, RIP
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, tagged Arnulfo Mendoza Ruíz, artists, death, funeral, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, weavers on March 10, 2014| 11 Comments »
Blog post as catharsis…
Saturday was a sad day in Oaxaca. It brought the completely unexpected death of one of Oaxaca’s most talented artists, Arnulfo Mendoza Ruiz. He was only 59. I knew him a little, peripherally through my blogger buddy, Chris, who has known him and his large Zapotec family in Teotitlán del Valle (his sisters are well-known chefs) for many years and with whom he had been collaborating on a project. Arnulfo had a well-known store and workshop called La Mano Mágica on the walking street here in Oaxaca, which showcased, not only his artistry (paintings, exquisite weavings, metal work, and more), but also the cream of Oaxaca’s artesanía and artist community. We would occasionally stop by or he would hail us from the doorway — always with twinkling eyes, mischievous smile, and well-worn fedora atop his head.
Today, the doors are closed.
As I’ve mentioned several times before, ritual and tradition play central roles in all aspects of Zapotec culture and it was amazing to watch it being expressed on Saturday. Arnulfo died in the morning and by the early afternoon, friends, family, and many of the major artists in Oaxaca, were gathered in La Mano Mágica. At one point, there was mournful chanting by several men in the gallery where his casket lay, later a band played, people came and went in the main workshop room, and in the room behind, his sisters prepared and served chicken covered in black mole, rice, tortillas, and atole. The women busied themselves with the ritual of preparing and offering food, but allowed the tears to well up when condolences were given. However, the men in the family sat or stood in clusters in the other two rooms, and remained stoic.
Under the embrace of El Picacho
According to belief, the funeral was held the next day. As we drove out to Teotitlán del Valle on Sunday, the winter sky’s usual puffy white clouds had turned dark and gray and a few tear drops fell from the heavens. There is a tradition of dimming the lights on Broadway to honor the death of a prominent member of the theatrical community. And, yesterday, it felt like Mother Nature desaturated the color of Oaxaca a little in honor of Arnulfo Mendoza Ruiz.
Led by the solemn sounds of a band, pallbearers carried the casket from his home high atop a hill in Teotitlán del Valle, down the steep and winding cobblestone streets, to Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo where a mass was celebrated. And then, all processed to the cemetery. The anguished sobs, as his body was lowered into the earth, were heart-wrenching. Like laughter, I think grief is contagious, as it reaches into our heart, takes hold, and shakes the continuum of feeling in each of us. And so, tears welled-up in my eyes.
Rest in peace, Arnulfo
Today, I continue to feel drained and very sad. I didn’t know Arnulfo well, but feel humbled by the fragility of physical life. I keep reflecting on how each of us tries to bring meaning to this temporal physical existence. Arnulfo was a flawed man and was chased by demons, but in his creativity and nurturing of the arts, he left the world a little better than he found it.
Chris’s farewell blog posts to his friend are especially touching: A sad day – Arnulfo Mendoza (1954-2014) and Another sad day – Arnulfo Mendoza (1954-2014).
And, here are two online obituaries (in Spanish): Adiós a Arnulfo Mendoza and Oaxaca de luto por la muerte de Arnulfo Mendoza.
Slow food, the Oaxaca way
Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged clayudas, food, Los Huamuches, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, restaurants, San Martín Tilcajete, slow food, tlayudas on March 7, 2014| 9 Comments »
Tuesday, not only brought the previously mentioned Carnaval, San Martín Tilcajete style, it also provided comida, muy sabrosa. No, not one of the 4 restaurants in Oaxaca recently listed in the 101 Best Restaurants in Latin America and the Caribbean. I’m talking about al fresco dining in a roadside restaurant. Sitting under the branches of a large shade tree on plastic chairs, around a plastic table, with cars and trucks speeding by, it was surprisingly tranquil.
We had ringside seats as our lunch was prepared on a well seasoned comal. I couldn’t help thinking as we sat at this unpretentious restaurant, in the middle of the fields that yielded the ingredients for our lunch, prepared according to culinary traditions passed down through generations of Zapotecos, this is quintessential “slow food.”
That’s my tlayuda (sometimes spelled, clayuda) being lifted off the comal — and it was one of the best I’ve eaten! Fyi, tlayudas are one of the 10 Essential Things To Eat And Drink In Oaxaca.
For more on our yummy lunch, see Chris’s blog post, Fat Tuesday done right. Alas, neither one of us took note of the name of the restaurant — all I know is it’s on the east side of Hwy 175, between San Martín Tilcajete and San Tomás Jalieza.
There she sits, aloft a perch
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, tagged Bluebird lyrics, Buffalo Springfield, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santa Rosa, street art, urban art on March 3, 2014| 3 Comments »
Maybe it’s the recent trip to the US — staying in my childhood home, rearranging boxes of old LPs in the garage, looking at framed Fillmore and Winterland concert tickets from shows I attended “back in the day.” Another sixties-era song came to mind when I ran across this photo I’d taken in January of some street art on Rio Papaloapam in Santa Rosa, Oaxaca (not California). Ahhh… the beautiful harmonies of Buffalo Springfield singing Bluebird by Stephen Stills.
Listen to my bluebird laugh
She can’t tell you why
Deep within her heart, you see
She knows only crying, just crying
There she sits, aloft a perch
Strangest color blue
Flying is forgotten now
Thinks only of you, just you, oh yeah
So get all those blues
Must be a thousand hues
And be just differently used
You just know
You sit there mesmerized
By the depth of her eyes
That you can’t categorize
She got soul, she got soul
She got soul, she got soul
Do you think she loves you?
Do you think at all?
Soon she’s going to fly away
Sadness is her own
Give herself a bath of tears
And go home and go home
Excuse me while I kiss the sky
Posted in Culture, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged graffiti, jacaranda, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Primavera, Spring, street art, trees, urban art on February 28, 2014| 4 Comments »
I’m still in recovery and catching-up mode and a nagging cold (caught in el norte) hasn’t helped. While I’ve only ventured out of Casita Colibrí a few times, I’m loving being back in the land of color.
And, after my recent sojourn to points north, where Mother Nature is a drama queen when it comes to seasons, I’m savoring one of the subtle signs of spring in Oaxaca.
The jacarandas are beginning to bloom.
Purple haze all in my eyes…
Excuse me while I kiss the sky!
Size doesn’t matter
Posted in Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, moto taxis, motorcycles, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, toy car, transportation, trucks on February 17, 2014| Leave a Comment »
What are you driving these days? Size doesn’t matter when it comes to cool rides in Oaxaca…
The question is, do you dance with wolves while driving?
It’s all Greek to me
Posted in Culture, Immigration, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alekos Gatonas, El Griego, Makedonia, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Zorba El Griego on February 15, 2014| 7 Comments »
I’m SO done with this so-called, Polar Vortex! I was supposed to fly into Albany, NY on Thursday night. It’s now Saturday morning, I’ve gotten as far as Chicago, and killing time until tonight’s flight by sorting through sun-drenched, color-filled, warm-weather Oaxaca photos. Even if the weather gods and goddesses are not cooperating, at least their cyber siblings are on the job providing WiFi — thus a new blog post.
This watch-repair, jewelry, and gifts (large or small) shop on Calle 20 del Noviembre is owned by Alekos Gatonas, originally from Macedonia. He studied at the University of Chicago, met his Oaxaqueña wife, and eventually they moved to Oaxaca. He and his family also own the event venue, “Zorba El Griego” and a Greek restaurant on the way to El Tule, “El Griego.”
By the way, “EΛΛΔΣ” translates into the Spanish word, “ellas,” which can be translated into English as “including.”
Day of love & friendship
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día del Amor y la Amistad, holidays, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Valentine's Day on February 14, 2014| 8 Comments »
After a day’s delay (thanks to the big snow storm), I’ll be spending Valentine’s Day enroute to the US East Coast to visit family. However, I wanted to wish all my readers much love and friendship.
¡Feliz día del amor y la amistad!
It’s a jungle out there
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged camouflage, culture, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza on February 10, 2014| Leave a Comment »
A mono in camo, seriously???
I guess it really is a jungle out there. But, it isn’t easy to stay hidden when your buddy is laughing at you.
Just another day crossing the Plaza de la Danza on my way to the market. As I keep saying, you just never know what you will uncover walking the streets of Oaxaca.
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