Posted in Celebrations, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged desfile, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, military, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on September 16, 2014| 3 Comments »
Is it cheating to post photos from the 2013 Mexican Independence Day desfile in Oaxaca? What can I say? It was raining today and, if it counts for anything, I never got around to posting these photos last year.
However, I do have some news from this year: The state police staged a protest and, besides your’s truly, Governor Cue did not attend — and I don’t think it was the rain that stopped him!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged boys, convite, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on September 13, 2014| 1 Comment »
During the aforementioned convites, you will find the boys of Teotitlán del Valle, Standing On the Corner watching all the girls go by. Not much has changed since The Four Lads had a hit with that song!
From my friend Samuel Bautista Lazo, who grew up in Teotitlán del Valle, “It’s funny to see boys with their cameras taking pictures and videos of the girls they like, often they watch the procession at one corner once they have seen everything, they run (or bike) as fast as they can to the other good spot to see all the girls again.” And, he knows from personal experience!
Like Sam, I wonder how many couples have gotten together??? Perhaps meeting at the fireworks a night later…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged canastas, convite, danzantes, El Picacho, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, procession, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de la Natividad on September 10, 2014| 4 Comments »
Defining the terms…
According to Harrap’s Spanish and English Pocket Dictionary, convite means reception. However, if I drag my weighty Larousse Standard Diccionario down from the shelf, convite translates to “invitation” or “banquet.” And, if one turns to Google or Bing translation programs, a convite is a “treat.”
All pretty much agree, the English translation for cochinilla is cochineal. As Wikipedia explains, “Cochineal is probably from French cochenille, Spanish cochinilla, Latin coccinus, meaning ‘scarlet-colored,’ and Latin coccum, meaning ‘berry (actually an insect) yielding scarlet dye.'” It has been called, A Perfect Red and was much sought after by Europeans. Home to said insect is the nopal cactus and guess who and where it was probably first cultivated? In the valley of Oaxaca by her indigenous people, long before the Spanish set foot on the continent.
Which brings us to last Saturday (September 6) in Teotitlán del Valle, under the watchful eye of el Picacho, the sacred brother/sister mountain, for the convite that precedes the Virgen de la Natividad (Nativity of Mary) festival day, held annually on September 8…
It is the custom in this Zapotec village for the unmarried women of the village to process through the streets two days before this (and a couple of other) important religious festivals, elegantly balancing handmade canastas (baskets), decorated with Catholic and Zapotec imagery, on their heads. They wear brightly embroidered blusas (blouses) and, in this village known worldwide for its weaving, enredos, hand-woven red wool wrap skirts — the yarn dyed red with cochinilla. They are accompanied by bands, men carrying enormous (and heavy!) marmotas (cloth globes), little boys carrying poles topped with miniature marmotas, sheep, and airplanes (the significance of the latter is a mystery to me), fearless pirotécnicas announcing the convite’s progress by shooting thunderous rockets into the air, and the dancers who will be performing the Danza de la Pluma in the church courtyard during the following two days’ of festivities.
Borrowing from the definitions above of convite, I would like to think of these processions as a lovely treat, an invitation to the impending fiestas/feast (banquet) days for the saints venerated by the village. The beauty of the welcoming faces of the young, old, male, and female in the convite provide a warm reception to villagers, visitors, Catholic saints, and Zapotec ancestors, alike.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, El Grito, El Mes de la Patria, Grito de Dolores, holidays, Jardín Sócrates, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, neveria, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on September 6, 2014| Leave a Comment »
September is El Mes de la Patria in Mexico (the month of the homeland) and green, white, and red decorations have gone up all over the city. The governor is scheduled to recreate “El Grito” (the Cry of Dolores) from the balcony of the Government Palace at 11 PM on September 15. The following day, there will be an hour-plus long patriotic parade through the streets of the city celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Neverías in Jardín Socrates
The teachers’ planton (encampment) on the zócalo expanded again to adjacent streets yesterday, though it is supposed to end by September 9. Oaxaca is holding her collective breath.
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Bendición de los Animales, birds, Blessing of Animals, dogs, ferrets, Mexico, Oaxaca, pets, photographs, photos, Saint Raymond Nonnatus, San Ramón de Nonato, Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced on September 1, 2014| 8 Comments »
However, my vote for the most exotic pet of the day goes to the hurón, known in English as a ferret. Oh those piercing eyes and those claws. I’d hate to get on her wrong side!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 31, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Protests, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged blockade, bloqueo, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Flor de piña, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pineapple dancers, Seccion 22, Villa de Etla on July 29, 2014| 8 Comments »
Last Monday, L and I had a leisurely hike up the hill from my apartment to the Guelaguetza Auditorium, sat in stadium seats almost 20 rows up, looking down on the enormous circular concrete stage with the city and mountains providing a picturesque backdrop.
Yesterday, I hopped on a bus, heading for another Guelaguetza performance, this time in Villa de Etla. However, a bloqueo (blockade) by Sección 22 of the teachers’ union had the bus turning around, doubling back, and taking a circuitous route that eventually wound its way through the narrow streets of Santa Rosa. Once we got back on the main road, I transferred to a colectivo and arrived in Etla just as the dancing was about to begin — this time on a small temporary wood-plank stage, that seemed to shake with every dance step. The setting wasn’t quite as spectacular, but, there I was, within an arm’s reach of the dancers!
Danza de la Pluma
Flor de Piña
With the exception of the Danza de la Pluma, these dancers are from a folkloric group that performs each of the traditional regional dances. As you can see from their faces, they dance with as much joy and pride as the delegations from the villages at the big Guelaguetza.
Returning home was its own adventure. Last week, L and I only had to navigate sidewalks, pathways, and stairs along with the other 11,000 attendees. Yesterday, Chris (see his Guelaguetza in Etla – 2014 post) gave me a ride to a bus stop where, after about 10 minutes, I caught the bus that would deposit me a half block from Casita Colibrí. Alas, the best laid plans… Just before the intersection up to Cerro Fortín, masked maestros (teachers) surrounded the bus, our driver shrugged, opened the doors, and off we passengers got. It was hot, I was tired, but what else was there to do? I hoofed it to halfway between the Museo del Ferrocarril (Railroad Museum) and Morelos Park, when another bus materialized, I climbed aboard, giving my feet a much-needed rest, and let the driver navigate the clogged streets that took me back to home sweet home.
It was a fun and frustrating AND exhilarating and exhausting kind of day.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Guelaguetza, Lila Downs, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 26, 2014| 1 Comment »
One of the qualities that amazes me about most Oaxaqueños is their patience with waiting in interminable lines. On the one hand, I think those north of the border could take some much-needed lessons in civil and well-mannered behavior. However, on the other hand, I think Oaxaqueños deserve much better than having to stand in endless lines, be it the bank, a government agency, or to get tickets to a concert by their favorite daughter, Lila Downs.
Last year, unable to figure out the hows and wheres of getting a ticket to her free concert during the ten days of the Guelaguetza festivities, I was on the verge of giving up getting tickets to see Lila Downs, when friends coming in from out-of-town(!), offered a couple to me. Of course, I accepted!
This year, after several false leads, on Tuesday morning L and I climbed back up to the Guelaguetza Auditorium to try to score some tickets to this year’s free concert. The box office was scheduled to open at 9 AM, we got up there at 8:30 AM and found ourselves at the end of a line that stretch halfway to the planetarium AND that continued to grow as the hours ticked by. Abuelos, niños, moms, dads, and teens lined the pathway, talking on cell phones, eating, talking, and laughing — without a raised voice or harsh word spoken.
At almost 10 AM, when the line hadn’t moved an inch, I walked down the hill to the box office to see what was happening. Nothing, as it turned out!
However, good-natured patience finally succumbed to whistles and shouts by those who were in the line of sight of the ticket booth — after all, according to the newspaper they had begun lining up at 4:30 AM!!!
I wound my way back up the hill to report my findings to L. Alas, after another 45 minutes of no movement, impatient gringas that we are, we gave up. However, to borrow from the musical Sound of Music, “somewhere in [our] youth or childhood, [we] must have done something good,” because 48 hours later, my neighbor presented us with tickets! And so last night, we climbed back up Cerro Fortín to see Lila Downs. We were very happy campers.
She put on another spectacular show — mixing new tunes with old, incorporating several of the Guelaguetza delegations into the production, and generally bringing cheers and sing-a-long voices from the hometown crowd. By the end, everyone was on their feet.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dance, Diosa Centéotl, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Lunes del Cerro, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 25, 2014| 2 Comments »
So much to see and do, so little time to process photos and post — should all our problems be so enjoyable! However, before tonight’s Lila Downs concert, tomorrow’s Desfile de Delagaciones (parade of delegations), and Monday’s Guelaguetza in Etla (and that’s only a few of the activities on the dance card), a glimpse from the beginning of Monday evening’s Guelaguetza performance.
Diosa Centéotl, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia began the presentation of Lunes del Cerro (aka, la Guelaguetza).
As tradition dictates, she was followed by the convite (procession) of Chinas Oaxaqueñas with their band, monos, and banners.
They filled the stage, dancing the Jarabe del Valle to the cheering crowd.
It was a balmy evening, the view was spectacular, fourteen more delegations danced their way into the night, and a dazzling display of fireworks exploded above the open-air auditorium to conclude the show.
And, they do it all again this coming Monday — hopefully, the kinks will be worked out for the live streaming, so no matter where you are, you can watch and enjoy the morning and/or evening performances.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Diosa Centéotl, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 21, 2014| 3 Comments »
This post is really just an excuse to post photos of two young women who are presiding over this year’s Guelaguetza activities. The first is the Reina (queen) of the 4th Expo Feria del Queso y Quesillo. She is a writer, loves books, and her eyes lit up (even more!) when I told her I was a librarian. She and her mother were so gracious and radiated joy and warmth. Alas, I didn’t catch her name; if anyone knows, please post in comments.
Friday evening, the Diosa Centéotl (corn goddess) was chosen to reign over this year’s Guelaguetza. Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, a native of Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, was selected from 33 participants who represented the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca in a 2-part competition. Each entrant was required to make a presentation, in both her native language and in Spanish, about the gastronomy, crafts, dances, legends, traditions, and customs of her village and on the clothing of her region. Even though we were way in the back, Jacqueline caught our attention with her impassioned speech. One of the first of her duties was to lead yesterday’s desfile (parade of the Guelaguetza delegations) through the streets of the city of Oaxaca.
I love Jacqueline’s reaction when her name was announced as Diosa Centéotl 2014.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Auditorium, Live streaming, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, popular on July 21, 2014| 1 Comment »
Live streaming of the Guelaguetza performances at the Guelaguetza auditorium atop Cerro del Fortín, July 21 and 28 at 10 AM and 5 PM (Central Daylight Time).
http://new.livestream.com/radical-bits/guelaguetza-2014
Update: La Guelaguetza 2014 is over, however you can view all the performances on Vive Oaxaca’s YouTube channel.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, History, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, Doña Marina, Feather dance, festivals, fiesta, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Subalternos, Teotitlán del Valle on July 10, 2014| 3 Comments »
We returned to Teotitlán del Valle on Tuesday and Wednesday the Danza de la Pluma — more of the multi-day fiesta honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo.
An airborne Moctezuma and the Danzantes
The Danza de la Pluma is a ritual re-enactment of the Spanish conquest. The story is told in 41 bailes (dances) and lasts from early afternoon into the night. It is an honor to be a participant — the Danzantes, Moctezuma, the Subalternos, Malinche, and Doña Marina are selected years in advance and make a promise to the church and community to perform their roles for 3 years.
Dance of Malinche and Doña Marina
All is not completely serious — the Subalternos provide a little levity along the way.
Subalterno trying on the Penacho of a Danzante
The subtext and “hidden” narratives of the danza are multiple and complex and after 5 years, I’m only in the infant stages of understanding. I will leave it to the two scholarly articles listed below to attempt interpretation.
References:
Cohen, Jeffrey. Danza de la Pluma: Symbols of submission and separation in a Mexican Fiesta. Anthropological Quarterly, Jul 93, Vol. 66 Issue 3, p. 149-158.
Harris, Max. The Return of Moctezuma. The Drama Review, Sp 97, Vol. 41 Issue 1, p. 106, 29 p.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged brass band, canastas, convite, del Valle, El Picacho, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, procession, Subalternos, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán on July 8, 2014| 5 Comments »
July in the valley of Oaxaca has begun! There will be festivals of mole, mushrooms, cheeses, and tamales. And, there will be the costumes, calendas, and music of Guelaguetza in the city and in several of the surrounding villages. But first…
Under a dark and threatening sky, the people of Teotitlán del Valle began their week-long Fiesta titular a la Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo (Festival to the Precious Blood of Our Lord Jesus Christ). Wearing traditional embroidered blouses and wool skirts woven in this Zapotec village known for its weaving, the unmarried young women and girls gathered in front of the church (Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo) for the convite (procession) that kicks off Teotitlán’s most important fiesta of the year.
The rain held off and the procession left the confines of the church courtyard.
Marmotas (giant cloth globes), music, and pyrotechnics led the way…
along with little boys holding canes of carrizo and poles topped with small marmotas, fluffy sheep, and airplanes (don’t ask me).
And then came the young women and girls, carrying canastas with images of the saints on their heads. I have to note here, these baskets are REALLY heavy. I know, because last year one of the gals asked if I’d like to try — I did for all of about five seconds. They carry them for almost an hour!!!
Most of the residents came out to watch at prime viewing locations. (Teenage boys were especially prominent, but they deserve another blog post.)
Under the watchful eye of El Picacho (the sacred mountain of Teotitlán), the procession wound its way up and down the cobblestone streets…
and eventually returned to the church courtyard, where it all began.
For more photos, including some of the pyrotechnic guys in action, check out Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, Between, Carnaval, Carnival, Dance of the Old Men, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on June 21, 2014| 4 Comments »
Tête-à-tête between Viejitos (I know, I’m mixing languages), seen between the shoulders of two municipal leaders, on the Municipal Plaza in Teotitlán del Valle during this year’s previously mentioned Carnaval.
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día del Padre, Father's Day, fathers and children, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on June 15, 2014| 6 Comments »
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 