Posted in Buildings, Churches, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged architecture, churches, iglesias, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de San Felipe Neri on October 14, 2012| 5 Comments »
Yesterday, standing on the terrace, playing with the zoom on my new camera. Looking southeast, as the sun was about to disappear behind the sierras to the west.
Templo de San Felipe Neri, a couple of blocks from Casita Colibrí.
Templo de San Francisco, about twelve blocks away. Going to keep working on it, but liking my little Lumix!
h/t Chris
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged convite, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, flor inmortal, La Santísima Virgen del Rosario, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, travel, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2012| 3 Comments »
It’s that time of year, again. Daylight doesn’t last quite as long, the large red-orange blossoms of the African tulip trees have mostly fallen (onto my terrace!), and the hummingbirds have mostly departed, leaving the airspace to the dragonflies and butterflies.
However, the season of yellow marigolds (cempazuchitl) and the yellows, oranges, and purples of flor inmortal (immortal flower) has begun and that means Días de los Muertos and Noche de Rabanos can’t be far behind.
In the meantime, during the past week, Teotitlán del Valle celebrated La Santísima Virgen del Rosario and early Friday evening, the unmarried girls and women gathered with their canastas for the traditional convite (holy procession).
And, given the season, flor inmortal played a prominent role in the decorations of many of the canastas.
And, as always, I’m amazed and captivated by the girls and women who, with arms raised, balance these sizable baskets on their head, as they navigate the sacred route along the cobbled (and, this day, rain-slicked) streets of Teotitlán del Valle — for almost an hour!
It’s a scene that I never tire of — of course, I’m not carrying a canasta on my head!
More photos and commentary over at Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged convite, El Picacho, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de la Natividad on September 9, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Waiting for the convite… Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María.
September 8 was a rainy day in Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Bendición de los Animales, Benito Juárez, Blessing of Animals, Mexico, Oaxaca, pets, photographs, photos, San Ramón de Nonato, Temple of Our Lady of Mercy, Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced on September 2, 2012| 5 Comments »
… and fish and turtles and ducks. On August 31, as the rain fell, all of the above and more, assembled at Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced for the annual Bendición de los Animales. Animals and their human keepers were there to celebrate the feast day of San Ramón de Nonato, patron saint of women in labor, persons falsely accused, and keeper of animals.
There were some familiar faces, both human and animal, from last year’s blessing. However, this year the dogs were extremely vocal and, on occasion, tested the strength of the human at the other end of their leash — perhaps it was in anticipation of the evening’s “blue moon” or maybe being restrained and made to just sit or stand in the rain made them grouchy.
This morning’s article in Noticias covering the blessing, led off with this quote from Benito Juárez García:
La protección de los animales forma parte esencial de la moral y de la cultura de los pueblos civilizados. (The protection of animals is an essential part of morality and culture of civilized people.)
For more on this year’s Blessing of the Animals, head over to Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged cargo system, cargosMexico, danzantes, Doña Marina, festivals, fiestas, La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Malinche, Oaxaca, patronal festividad, photographs, photos, soldados, Teotitlán del Valle, travel on July 9, 2012| Leave a Comment »
The convite (covered in the Uplifting post) is only one of the traditions of the patronal festival of La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. During the five days of the celebration, the church is filled with floral arrangements and believers stream in and out clutching flowers; the Danza de la Pluma (with Moctezuma, Cortez, Malinche, Doña Marina, danzantes, and soldados) is performed several times; and the cargo holders of the community preside, are honored, and presented with fresh fruits, vegetables, sacred herbs, and beverages.
Sunday was another amazing day in Teotitlán del Valle. And I haven’t even mentioned the tacos and tamales we devoured during our three visits this past week!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, tagged convite, danzantes, El Picacho, festivals, fiestas, La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, patronal festividad, photographs, photos, sacred mountain, soldados, Teotitlán del Valle, travel on July 7, 2012| 10 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon, we returned to Teotitlán del Valle for the convite (parade) of unmarried young women and girls, a part of the annual patronal festival of La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. The sun was shining, the rains of two days before were nowhere to be seen, and the sacred mountain, El Picacho, gracefully, but commandingly, presided as the soldados and danzantes entered the church courtyard.
Bands also arrived to take part…
Canastas (baskets) were lined up, ready to be carried…
The young men of the village gathered…
Family and friends awaited…
And then the young unmarried women and girls, the stars of the evening, raised the canastas over their heads…
Balancing the canastas, they processed from the courtyard, down several long and cobblestone blocks, turned left, and headed back up another street to where they had begun, to be greeted by proud family and friends, who had gathered to acknowledge and celebrate the young women and girls of Teotitlán del Valle.
For some inexplicable reason, we never cease to feel moved and uplifted by this ritual.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Religion, Signs, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, wall art on May 18, 2012| 1 Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Music, Religion, tagged Carmen Alto, castillo, culture, Danza de la Pluma, Easter, fireworks, fuegos artificiales, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photo, photographs, Semana Santa, toritos, travel, video on April 16, 2012| Leave a Comment »
It’s been a week since the end of Semana Santa and I’m still sorting through photos and videos and reflecting on impressions and feelings. However, I’m finding that, with too much thinking, the experience slips through the fingers and the magic vanishes.
Thus, I give you the night of Pascuas (Easter) at Carmen Alto…
And then, the hisses, bangs, and brilliant explosions of a castillo…
brought Semana Santa to a spectacular close.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, Religion, tagged Bible, Christianity, culture, Good Friday, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, ritual procession, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 10, 2012| Leave a Comment »
The back of the official 26th anniversary t-shirt for the Good Friday, Procesión del Silencio, doesn’t come close to telling the tale.
Images of belief add texture to the ritual procession of mourners grieving the crucifixion and death of Jesus, as related in the New Testament of the Christian Bible.
But it’s the eyes of believers…
that gives the narrative a silent voice.
And, grieving mothers everywhere understand.
No matter where one lands on the belief continuum, it’s hard not to be moved.
(ps) For lots more terrific photos, take a look at Chris’s posting, The Procession of Silence.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, tagged celebrations, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, flor inmortal, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco on November 24, 2011| 1 Comment »
Today is Thanksgiving in los Estados Unidos de América… and besides my wonderful family and friends, I am so grateful to see and experience places like San Antonino Castillo Velasco during los Días de Muertos.
¡Feliz Acción de Gracias a todos!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, tagged celebrations, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, flor inmortal, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco on November 22, 2011| 2 Comments »
San Antonino Castillo Velasco, a Zapotec community near Ocotlán, is a village known for its flowers. They are, no doubt, the inspiration for beautifully embroidered linens and clothing sold in the mercados and found in museum collections. And, a specialty is the “flor inmortal” (immortal flower), so named because, even when dried, it retains its brilliant colors. They are used to create intricately designed figures on display December 23 in the city of Oaxaca, during Noche de Rábanos and to decorate the graves of loved ones during Días de Muertos in San Antonino.
As I’ve previously mentioned, each village seems to have its own unique traditions for the Days of the Dead. Villagers here mix the area’s very fine dirt with water, cover the graves, use a trowel to smooth it, outline designs and religious imagery into the dried coating, and then use flowers (fresh and dried), to paint the scene. Entire families are involved, young and old, and the atmosphere is filled with joy, purpose, and most of all… Love.
For a very special moment, that is a metaphor the two days spent at San Antonino, see Chris’s post, Moments make a life..
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, Santiago Apóstol on November 9, 2011| 16 Comments »
On the road during los Días de muertos led us to Santiago Apóstol in the municipality of Ocotlán de Morelos…
Entering their Panteón, the play of light and shadow and explosion of greens, reds, oranges, yellows, and magentas against whitewashed graves was stunning.
Unique artistry was evident in each of the cemeteries we visited.
One of the special and fragrant features here was the rose petals scattered atop graves.
Have I mentioned… No matter where one seems to go in Oaxaca, the senses are filled!
More to come…
Posted in Celebrations, Food, Holidays, Religion, tagged Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, dead bread, Mexico, Mitla, Oaxaca, ofrenda, pan de muerto on November 1, 2011| 2 Comments »
Pan de muerto is the traditional Days of the Dead sweet yeast bread. It is decorated and placed on ofrendas (altars), along with candles, flowers, fruit, pictures, mementos, other foodstuffs, and beverages, as offerings to the departed.
The intricately decorated pan de muerto are from the Tlacolula Valley, and reference the geometric designs and mosaic fretwork found in the archeological sites in and around Mitla, a photo of which I’m using as browser background on this blog.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Holidays, Religion, Restaurants, tagged Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muertos, decorations, La Olla, Mexico, Oaxaca, restaurants, skeletons on October 25, 2011| 1 Comment »
Decorations have begun going up around town and, at this time of year, La Olla offers the complete dining experience…
A warm welcome from the hostess.
Waiters standing ready to take your order.
And, una mariposa hanging out, ready to wish you “¡buen provecho!”
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Remembering, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black Christ, celebrations, dance, mom, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, Señor de Esquipulas, Templo del Carmen Alto on January 18, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Sunday, in the Plazuela de Carmen Alto, celebrations honoring the Christ of Esquipulas (Black Christ) were in full swing. I was awakened at 6 AM to the sound of fuegos artificiales (fireworks) and eventually drifted off to sleep after 11:30 PM, as fireworks’ explosions resumed.
Festivities lasted all day and I couldn’t resist heading up to the church courtyard to see what was happening.
When I arrived, seats in the shade were filled and a small crowd was gathered behind a barricade; a castillo, laying on its side in three parts, was being constructed; a teenage Oaxacan brass band, with the requisite tuba towering over the other instruments and their players, was waiting to play; and young dancers were performing with a combination of earnestness and joy.
Dance always seems to be an integral part of celebrations both secular and religious, and, in reflecting on my love for this, at times, perplexing and contradictory place, dance is one of the things that resonates the most.
A small stage set up under the trees; dancers, their handmade and unique costumes; energetic music; choreographed steps passed down through generations spirited me back to my childhood…
Let’s dance!
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View From Casita Colibrí 