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Archive for the ‘Markets’ Category

Yesterday and today

Posted in Buildings, Geography, History, Markets, tagged , , , , , , , , on August 21, 2012| 6 Comments »

Several days ago, Susan McGlynn of the Insider’s Guide to Oaxaca posted this photo on the Insider’s Facebook page, with the question, “Oaxaca in the 1940s or maybe 50s?. DO YOU KNOW WHICH CORNER OF OAXACA THIS IS???”

Black and white street scene of large baskets and indigenous vendors and shoppers.

The architecture looked very familiar and then there were those trees in the distance…  I was pretty sure I knew which corner this was, so off the camera and I went.

Black and whte street scene filled with automobiles and people on sidewalk and a couple crossing the street

It’s looking north on Flores Magón at the intersection of Las Casas.  That’s the Government Palace in front of the trees of the zócalo at the end of the street.  Outside the shot and to the left of the cars in the foreground is Mercado Benito Juárez.  Perhaps all is a little clearer in color…

Street scene (in color) filled with automobiles and people on sidewalk and a couple crossing the street

That cinnamon colored building in the foreground is the Trebol Hotel and the single-story white building next to the Government Palace is La Lagunilla, which must have been in business when the original photograph was taken, as the sign says it was founded in 1921.

Cars in front of one story white building with blue awning and name, La Lagunilla, painted at the top of the building

This was fun!

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A little chocolate now and then…

Posted in Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on August 5, 2012| 3 Comments »

As that wise philosopher and Charlie Brown creator, Charles M. Schulz once wrote,

All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn’t hurt.

And, chocolate in Oaxaca is easy to find and is almost as well-known as Oaxaca’s cheeses and mole.  Ground almonds and cinnamon give it a distinctive and slightly spicy flavor — and everyone has their favorite.  Mayordomo and La Soledad are two of the most well-known labels, but my favorite brand (as opposed to homemade, which is in a class all by itself), is the much smaller, Conchita.

Conchita poster

Every month or so, I weave my way in and out through the crush of the always teeming sidewalks of Miguel Cabrera to the Conchita puesto immediately to the right, inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre — the entrance between Aldama and Mina.

Sky blue entrance to the mercado 20 de noviembre.

I’m always greeted with a smile of recognition and the question, “Semi-amargo?”  Sí, I always reply!

Male sales clerk behind counter filled with chocolate products.

I buy the little semisweet chocolate chips for snacking (especially decadent and delicious when mixed with dried cranberries) and the large discs, which I grate into a fine powder to mix with hot milk to add to my morning coffee — a delectable way to jump-start the day!

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Under construction

Posted in Buildings, Food, Markets, tagged , , , , , , , , on June 30, 2012| 3 Comments »

One of the pleasures of living here, is grocery shopping at the traditional mercados.   As the map from my local Mercado IV Centenario shows, the variety of items sold rivals any US supermarket chain.

Color coded map of Mercado IV Centenario stalls painted on wall.

The freshness and quality far exceeds anything the chains have to offer and you can’t beat the personal attention.

Woman vendor in her produce stall.

There is something comforting about being recognized and greeted by favorite vendors and gratifying about purchasing tamales proudly sold by the loving hands that made them.

White-haired woman sitting behind two plastic buckets full of tamales

However, on May 14, 2012, Mercado IV Centenario, operated by the municipio of Oaxaca de Juárez, began a much-needed major renovation.  The doors have been locked…

Chains locking double doors.

and demolition has begun.

Construction workers demolishing interior of mercado

According to a May 25th article, the project includes a new roof and bathrooms, waterproofing, installing tile floors, interior and exterior painting, and rehabilitation of the water, sanitation, and electrical systems.  In addition, an access door on the busy avenida Independencia will be constructed.

For the duration of the renovation, the merchants and their stalls have been relocated under a big blue tent in Jardín Morelos on Independencia, across from the chain supermarket, Soriana.  Rather than hurting business, the vendors report sales have increased at the temporary site and are hoping to bring the new customers along when they move into the newly renovated Mercado IV Centenario.

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It’s good to be back…

Posted in Buildings, Food, Markets, Parks & Plazas, Places, Sports, Sports & Recreation, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on June 24, 2012| Leave a Comment »

Last night, under starry skies, I returned to Casita Colibrí.  The streets were wet and potholed (more than usual) and even in the dark, my garden looked green and lush, all thanks to the rains Hurricane Carlotta brought and a storm track that continues to have Oaxaca in its sights.

After a verrry slow morning spent renewing my apartment’s acquaintance (remember, no TP in the toilet), gazing at the view, and unpacking, armed with two shopping bags, I headed down to Mercado IV Centenario (my local mercado) for some much-needed restocking, only to find doors locked.   Ooops!  I’d forgotten, as of mid May it was temporarily relocated to Jardín Morelos, due to a long overdue renovation project.  So, down the stairs and across Independencia to the new site, I went.  How nice it was to see the familiar faces of my favorite vendors and what warm greetings I received.   Ahhh… it’s good to be back!

The route home took me up through the Plaza de la Danza.  And, what to my wondering eyes did appear?   A boxing ring, boxing fans, and a boxing match in progress.  Darn, I neglected to bring my camera.  Hey, it was just supposed to be a grocery shopping trip!  However, this from my iPod Touch camera.

2 boxers in boxing ring with referee in background.

Concerts, dance exhibitions, fireworks staging site, ferias and now boxing in the Plaza de la Danza.  As I’ve said, the public spaces in Oaxaca are well used!

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Tlacolula, she’s my baby…

Posted in Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on April 27, 2012| 3 Comments »

Every time I pass by the turnoff to Tlacolula de Matamoros, I break into song, “Be-bop-a-lula, she’s my baby.”  And, seeing this guy on the front of a building on one of the town’s main streets only contributes to channeling Gene Vincent.

Wall art of tuba player

I was last there early this month for the first Festival de la Nieve, Mezcal y Vinagre.  Ice cream, mezcal, and fruit and veggies in vinegar… what’s not to like?

Bottles of mezcal

And then there is the weekly Sunday tianguis (market), where women in colorfully embroidered cotton aprons over tightly pleated polyester brocade skirts (where did that style come from?) buy and sell everything under the sun.

3 women in embroidered aprons.

As the article, The Pop-up Food Shops of Oaxaca confirms, I’m not the only one who is captivated by Tlacolula.

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Marimba in the mercado

Posted in Culture, Markets, Music, tagged , , , , on March 5, 2012| Leave a Comment »

I love going to my little local mercado on Sunday mornings.  Steps leading up to it from Independencia are lined with vendors of street food, flowers, religious trinkets, herbs, you name it!  Inside, the cavernous building is teeming with more activity than on weekdays.  And, these guys are there to entertain diners and shoppers…

Man, teenage boy, and young boy playing marimba

I suspect this is a father and his two sons.  Marimba playing seems to be a (masculine) family affair.

Close up of young boy

It isn’t unusual to see these beautiful instruments being carried through the streets and sidewalks of Oaxaca…

Parquetry detail on marimba

… on their way to set up and play traditional “sones” from Oaxaca and/or old pop standards at a fiesta, in front of a shop, or inside a mercado.  Muchisimas gracias for a delightful soundtrack!

One of these days, I’m going to shoot video of some of them, but in the meantime, here are a couple from YouTube:

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This is…

Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Markets, Music, tagged , , , , , , , , on December 3, 2011| 2 Comments »

In August 2011, Vive Oaxaca launched a campaign to showcase the best of the state through a series of video shorts.  Two have already been released online:

Esto es Zaachila

and, Esto es Guelaguetza

I’m looking forward to Monday night’s online release of, Esto es Oaxaca de Juárez.  I guess you know what my Tuesday morning blog post will be!

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Up close in Zaachila

Posted in Animals, Markets, tagged , , , , on November 17, 2011| Leave a Comment »

Thursday is market day in Zaachila.  And, along with the baskets, aprons, succulent fruits and vegetables, mouthwatering food stalls, kitchen and hardware, it features turkeys (hobbled and unable to trot), goats of many colors, yokes of oxen, and little piggies going to market…

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I love it!

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