I opened the front gate this morning to find the sidewalk had morphed into an Estación de la Cruz.
Worshipers prayed, recited the appropriate devotions, and then slowly moved on.
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays | Tagged Estaciones de la Cruz, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, ritual procession, Semana Santa, Via Crucis, Viernes Santo | Leave a Comment »
Today was Jueves Santo (aka: Holy Thursday or Maundy Thursday).
Believers gathered to commemorate the Last Supper of Jesus. Tables are set up in church doorways selling pan bendito (3 buns for 5 pesos of blessed bread). And, where there are more than ten people, vendors gather….
Outside Iglesia de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo — I suspect her life hasn’t been half as sweet as the dulces she was selling.
A little sweetheart on his best behavior and waiting to process.
Would you buy pickled carrots or peppers from this woman?
The rains came and the capas del agua vendors miraculously appeared outside Santo Domingo.
After visiting the prescribed 7 churches, I rewarded myself with my (hopefully, not last) supper — a flor de calabaza and quesillo empanada, cooked to order. Yummm….
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays | Tagged Holy Thursday, Jueves Santo, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa | Leave a Comment »
And now a pause in our Semana Santa coverage…
Yesterday was a momentous day at Casita Colibrí. I arrived home just in time to watch the removal of my late, previously mentioned, but definitely not lamented, baby-size tinaco and the installation of my gigunda, new, and much wished for, tinaco. It was a sight to behold!
These guys looked so young… but worked efficiently and seemed to know exactly what they were doing. I sure hope so!
Fingers and toes, but not eyes, are crossed that this will, at long last, solve my every-other-day lack of water problem.
Posted in Environment, Home | Tagged Casita Colibrí, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tinaco, water | Leave a Comment »
Yesterday, on the stairs leading to the Basilica de la Soledad, I bought my woven palm fronds from these gals. 
However, this gal insisted I take her picture, too!
And today, on the plaza in front of the Basilica, the faithful waited for the outdoor mass and the blessing of their palms.
Sisters, perhaps?
Posted in Holidays | Tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, ritual, Semana Santa | 4 Comments »
Yesterday, Oaxaca’s faithful celebrated el día de la Virgen de Dolores… commemorating the pain and suffering of the Virgin Mary upon the death of her son. I may not be a believer, but there is something appealing about the religious celebrations here. Special altars were constructed in courtyards and businesses… and benedictions and bands were heard in various parts of the city.
The 5-star ex-convento hotel, Camino Real invited the public to a program, replete with a benediction, speeches by local dignitaries, poetry, and a concert of sacred music by Coro de la Ciudad (Chorus of the City) and Sexteto de Cuerdas Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart String Sextet).
Sorry about the abrupt ending. The learning continues…
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays | Tagged Coro de la Ciudad, Día de la virgen de Dolores, Oaxaca, Sexteto de Cuerdas Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, video | Leave a Comment »
I’ve been wanting to write this post for almost two months…
Back in February, when L was visiting, we, along with thirty or so other curious and interested (mostly) gringos, toured two of the libraries Libros Para Pueblos has established — one in Santiago Etla and another further up the valley in San Pablo Huitzo. Local officials and library staff welcomed us and school children read from story books, gave book reports, and performed skits. It was a non-touristy introduction to Oaxaca for L, and a moving, informative, and inspiring experience for both of us.
Libros Para Pueblos is a program of the Oaxaca Lending Library and is staffed by a dedicated group of volunteers, spearheaded by Janet Stanley, a one woman dynamo! Its mission is, “putting books into the hands of the children of Oaxaca” by establishing libraries in the villages of the state of Oaxaca, thereby encouraging a love of reading and promoting education.
As I explained in my previous post, Books… children… What’s not to like?!, the need in this state is enormous. Little by little, progress is being made and over the past ten years, Libros Para Pueblos has set-up, always with the support and participation of the local communities, over 40 libraries. It is a much-needed program and well worth supporting.
Posted in Education | Tagged books, education, libraries, Libros Para Pueblos, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Lending Library, reading, San Pablo Huitzo, Santiago Etla | Leave a Comment »
Today’s topic on Fresh Air was The Worldwide Thirst for Clean Drinking Water, in which, the program’s website states, “Investigative reporter Charles Fishman says the past 100 years have been the golden age of water in the developed world — but now that’s about to change. He profiles communities grappling with water shortages and details the efforts to conserve water in The Big Thirst.”
In the interview, Fishman makes the point that in the USA, “We don’t even take [water] for granted because taking it for granted would suggest we pay attention to it.” Not so, living in Mexico; water is considered precious and, thus, respected and conserved. Water deliveries, be they the non-potable I wrote about yesterday, or listening for the vendors of garrafons (1 equals 20 liters) of drinking water shout from their pickup trucks, “¡Agua!… ¡Agua!… ¡Agua!,” are an important part of daily life here.
I highly recommend clicking on, The Worldwide Thirst for Clean Drinking Water to hear Terry Gross’s interview with Charles Fishman, discussing his new book, The Big Thirst: The Secret Life and Turbulent Future of Water.
My garrafon of veggie and fruit washing, drinking, cooking, and teeth brushing water…
Yikes, it’s raining… gotta go put out my buckets to catch rain to store in my garden watering barrel!
Posted in Environment | Tagged Fresh Air, Oaxaca, The Big Thirst, water | Leave a Comment »
Flying into any airport in Mexico, you see them, Mexico’s ubiquitous rooftop water delivery system, the tinaco. This is mine…
After living with and cursing it for the past 16 months, word has it I might be getting a newer and larger one. Even though I’m not superstitious, I’m keeping my fingers crossed!
*** For those of you who are dying to know how the water system here works: Municipal water is regularly (or, not so regularly) pumped into an aljibe, a storage tank under our courtyard and driveway; a bomba (pump) is run daily for an hour to bring water from the aljibe up into the tinacos sitting on the various rooftops of the apartment complex. When we turn on our tap, water flows (or dribbles) from our faucets courtesy of gravity.
I might add, this is non potable water. Drinking water is a completely different story…
Posted in Environment | Tagged Oaxaca, tinaco, water | 1 Comment »
Look up! Tree trimmers at work on the Alameda. Never fear, Protección Civil is on the job.
As are the recyclers… official and unofficial.
Posted in Environment | Tagged Oaxaca, recycling, scavenging, Tree trimmers | 2 Comments »
I sure hope no one needs a taxi in el centro today.
Double-parked on Independencia and lined up for blocks on side streets, empty taxis sit…
A protest against “pirate” taxis.
By the way, pink taxis, lavender taxis, and green taxis were lined up on other streets, which would have added more color to this entry. But, alas, I violated the first rule of photography: Always carry an extra battery! I know, my feeble excuse of, I’d only gone out to buy velcro adhesive for my mosquito screen door project, is no excuse.
Posted in Labor, Protests | Tagged blockade, demonstrations, huelga, Mexico, Oaxaca, protest, strike, taxis | 1 Comment »
Yesterday…
3:00 pm Storm clouds gathering
7:30 pm Lightening spotted and distant thunder heard
8:00 pm Patter of rain on tin roof
8:45 pm Rain in earnest
9:30 pm Hail??? Yes!!! ***
*** It was 72ºF outside!
h/t Glenn for title inspiration
Posted in Weather | Tagged Oaxaca, weather | Leave a Comment »
Today, the fourth Friday of Lent, is Día de la Samaritana, also known as el Día de las Aguas, and a uniquely Oaxacan celebration. It is inspired by the Biblical story of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus. And so, here in Oaxaca churches, schools, and businesses offer passersby free cups of horchata, aguas frescas, and some, even ice cream.
Decorations began going up around town yesterday…
Sidewalk stands are set up, some more elaborate…
than others…
And, what does one do with the empty (and not-so-empty) cups?
Decorate a window sill, of course!
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays | Tagged Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca | 4 Comments »
It’s only Tuesday, but it’s been a week already! Living in Mexico requires a rewiring of one’s brain; wrapping one’s mind around a much more fluid concept of time. As writer Tony Cohan pointed out, in his book by the same name, one must learn to live On Mexican Time, or endless frustration will result.
This morning I spent an hour at the Telmex office (yet again) attempting to upgrade my internet connection speed; my fourth trip to the office in six days. Friday, I was assured that it would be taken care of on Monday and that my presence wouldn’t be necessary. This morning, a check at speedtest.net revealed my connection speed had not changed. So, off I went with as much documentation, patience, and good-nature as I could muster. Eventually, after great deal of consultation and computer inputting, I was told all would be well in 24 hours. We shall see…
Feeling not a little frustrated, I trudged up to my neighborhood indigenous mercado for some much needed provisions. It’s never bustling with activity nor is it bursting with atmosphere, but it’s my local market and, though unlike Cheers, nobody knows my name, I am recognized and greeted with smiles by the gals who regularly sell me cheese and produce. And today, there was a woman sitting next to the stairs selling hand (not machine) made tortillas. My lucky day!
I walked back to Casita Colibrí smiling to myself. How could I not, when returned home with big ball of quesillo, pimiento, epazote, warm tortillas, 2 aguacates, and flor de calabaza???
Yummm… comida beckoned!
Posted in Challenges, Food | Tagged food, mercados, Oaxaca, time | 2 Comments »
This evening… sitting out on the covered portion of Casita Colibrí’s terrace, birds are chattering, wind chimes are tinkling, the occasional flincher is exploding in the distance, horns are honking (who knows what is blocking traffic on Morelos), church bells have begun chiming, and big rain drops are plopping down on the tin roof. The wind has planes, on their approach to Oaxaca’s little airport, flying over Casita Colibrí. Am I really here… in Southern Mexico?
And then, the sunset…
Posted in Nature & Science | Tagged Oaxaca, sunset | Leave a Comment »
On my way to the Oaxaca Lending Library this morning, I was stopped in my tracks by tree shadows and dappled lavender jacaranda blossoms on the rust red of newly landscaped planter beds of Santo Domingo. Light, shadows, color, texture…
Posted in Nature & Science | Tagged brooms, escobas de otate, jacaranda, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santo Domingo, twig brooms | Leave a Comment »
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