Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for the ‘Holidays’ Category

Let the celebrations begin!  This morning, enroute to the library, I ran into a pre-school parade coming down the Alcalá…

Children carrying Mexican flag and Viva Hidalgo sign.

These two were bringing up the rear because they kept pausing for photos, and I couldn’t resist, either!

A little girl holding the hand of an even smaller boy.

Going to the zócalo this afternoon more resembled trying to get to an airport gate, than strolling into a town square.  Security checkpoints, with metal detectors, have been set up at 10 intersections.  According to an article in this morning’s Noticias, security cameras are also in use.

Black clad military with automatic weapons, wearing flak jackets and helmets, at security checkpoint

All is in readiness for tonight’s festivities… another sound and light show projected on the cathedral, fireworks, and the Grito de Dolores from the balcony of the Government Palace.

Government Palace with flags and color portraits of Mexican heroes of Independence.

However, tonight I’ll be eating the traditional Chiles en Nogada,  listening for the bells at 11PM, and then watching the fireworks from my ringside seat on the rooftop.  ¡Viva Mexico!

(ps)  Portrait on the left is of Vicente Guerrero.

Read Full Post »

In Mexico, from small pueblos (villages) to large ciudades (cities), most all have calles (streets) named Morelos and Hidalgo — some, like Oaxaca, have more than one, which can be very confusing when trying to find an address, to say the least!  The names Vicario and Ortiz de Domínguez aren’t nearly so commonplace.

However, two of the women (among countless unsung heroines) who played a major role in the struggle for independence from Spain were Leona Vicario and Josefa Ortiz Domínguez.  In a fitting tribute to their importance to the Independence movement, their giant portraits currently hang on the outside wall of the Municipal Building overlooking the Plaza de la Danza, along with those of Miguel Hidalgo de Costilla and José María Morelos y Pavón.

Portrait of Leona Vicario

Leona Vicario, 1789-1842

Leona Vicario provided money and medical support, helped fugitives, and served as a messenger.  After escaping from prison, she helped her husband, Andrés Quintana Roo, plan strategies on the battle field.

Portrait of Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez

Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, 1773-1829

Confined to house arrest after a co-conspirator betrayed the upcoming plans for revolt by the Independence movement, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez was able to smuggle a message out, warning of the betrayal.

Portrait of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla

Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, 1753-1811

As a result, in the early morning of September 16, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla rang the church bells in Dolores, rallying the rebels, and issuing, what has come to be known as Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores), the signal to begin the War of Independence from Spain.  It is an event that is recreated all over Mexico at 11 PM on September 15.  (See the link re why it isn’t done in the early morning of September 16.)

Portrait of José María Morelos y Pavón

José María Morelos y Pavón, 1765-1815

The last portrait on the wall is that of José María Morelos y Pavón, of Afro-mestizo heritage, and, like Hidalgo, also a priest.  He was a capable military commander who assumed leadership of the independence movement after Hidalgo was executed.  For a local connection, on November 25, 1812, in what is thought of as a brilliant victory, Morelos, along with the support of Mariano Matamoros and Miguel Bravo, took the city of Oaxaca.  Fittingly, the streets Morelos and Matamoros run parallel and M. Bravo intersects them just a few blocks from the Municipal Building and the Plaza de la Danza.

(ps)  These portraits are painted directly on fine mesh screen… thus, the window bars showing through.

Read Full Post »

El Grito de la Independencia is coming!  Vendors of everything green, white, and red have set up their carts on Oaxaca’s busiest street corners and Mexican flags are flying everywhere.

A little slice from yesterday’s grocery shopping trip around town…

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Definitely more to come!

 

 

Read Full Post »

More than one norte americano has asked, “What’s up with the KKK-like hoods?”  Ahh… a reference question for the librarian!

Purple hooded men carry a Jesus statue

They date back to 15th or 16th century Europe.  Members of lay religious charitable organizations (cofradías) would don the masks and hoods to guarantee anonymity and promote humility in their service. The Spanish brought the tradition to Mexico.

References:

Read Full Post »

The Procesión del Silencio departed from the Iglesia de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo and proceeded up the Alcalá to Gómez Farias, where it turned left and left again and down García Vigil to Independencia and then back up the Alcalá. Once the procession began, fellow blogger Chris (Oaxaca-The Year After) and I left the masses on the Alcalá and positioned ourselves on a wall overlooking García Vigil, for an unobstructed view.

Out of respect for what is being commemorated, tradition calls for participants and spectators to remain silent, save for the solemn drum beat and haunting sounds of a chirimia that herald the procession’s arrival and continue to play as the faithful from various neighborhoods and churches carry banners, crosses, and images of the crucified Jesus and his grieving mother through the streets of the city.

Read Full Post »

Spectators, participants, and the ever-present vendors waiting for the Procesión del Silencio…

Dad holding baby girl

2 red hooded participants waiting.

Participants and spectators

Altar kids lined up
White hood participants waiting

Woman vendor holding basket of candy.

More to come…

Read Full Post »

I opened the front gate this morning to find the sidewalk had morphed into an Estación de la Cruz.

Station of the cross on the sidewalk with Jesus and Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.

Worshipers prayed, recited the appropriate devotions, and then slowly moved on.

Read Full Post »

Today was Jueves Santo (aka: Holy Thursday or Maundy Thursday).

Believers gathered to commemorate the Last Supper of Jesus.  Tables are set up in church doorways selling pan bendito (3 buns for 5 pesos of blessed bread).  And, where there are more than ten people, vendors gather….

Woman dulce vendor outside Sangre de Cristo

Outside Iglesia de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo — I suspect her life hasn’t been half as sweet as the dulces she was selling.

Angelic looking altar boy

A little sweetheart on his best behavior and waiting to process.

Seated nun

Would you buy pickled carrots or peppers from this woman?

Plastic rain capes vendor

The rains came and the capas del agua vendors miraculously appeared outside Santo Domingo.

Vendor making empanadas, memelas, tortas, and tlayudas on a comal.

After visiting the prescribed 7 churches, I rewarded myself with my (hopefully, not last) supper — a flor de calabaza and quesillo empanada, cooked to order.  Yummm….

Read Full Post »

Yesterday, on the stairs leading to the Basilica de la Soledad, I bought my woven palm fronds from these gals.  Palm frond weaving gals

However, this gal insisted I take her picture, too!Palm frond weaver on stairs.

And today, on the plaza in front of the Basilica, the faithful waited for the outdoor mass and the blessing of their palms.Woman seated on stoop with palm fronds.

Sisters, perhaps?2 women wearing rebozos, with their palms.

Read Full Post »

Yesterday, Oaxaca’s faithful celebrated el día de la Virgen de Dolores… commemorating the pain and suffering of the Virgin Mary upon the death of her son.  I may not be a believer, but there is something appealing about the religious celebrations here.  Special altars were constructed in courtyards and businesses… and benedictions and bands were heard in various parts of the city.
The 5-star ex-convento hotel, Camino Real invited the public to a program, replete with a benediction, speeches by local dignitaries, poetry, and a concert of sacred music by Coro de la Ciudad (Chorus of the City) and Sexteto de Cuerdas Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart String Sextet).
Sorry about the abrupt ending.  The learning continues…

Read Full Post »

Today, the fourth Friday of Lent, is Día de la Samaritana, also known as el Día de las Aguas, and a uniquely Oaxacan celebration.  It is inspired by the Biblical story of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus.  And so, here in Oaxaca churches, schools, and businesses offer passersby free cups of  horchata, aguas frescas, and some, even ice cream.

Decorations began going up around town yesterday…

window decoration: purple tule, tin heart, and flowers

Sidewalk stands are set up,  some more elaborate…

Purple decorations hanging from lona

than others…Small agua fresca stand

And, what does one do with the empty (and not-so-empty) cups?

Empty cups on window sill

Decorate a window sill, of course!

Read Full Post »

Oaxaca loves Valentine’s Day! Rojo is the color of the day… red tablecloths cover the tables of restaurants under the portales… red shirts, sweaters, skirts, and shoes capture the eye. The Zócalo is teeming with people… young men carefully carrying cone wrapped roses for their sweethearts, girls clutching their regalos… stuffed animals, bouquets of flowers, and balloons.

And speaking of balloons…

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad!

Read Full Post »

Sunday, in the Plazuela de Carmen Alto, celebrations honoring the Christ of Esquipulas (Black Christ) were in full swing. I was awakened at 6 AM to the sound of fuegos artificiales (fireworks) and eventually drifted off to sleep after 11:30 PM, as fireworks’ explosions resumed.

Festivities lasted all day and I couldn’t resist heading up to the church courtyard to see what was happening.

When I arrived, seats in the shade were filled and a small crowd was gathered behind a barricade; a castillo, laying on its side in three parts, was being constructed; a teenage Oaxacan brass band, with the requisite tuba towering over the other instruments and their players, was waiting to play; and young dancers were performing with a combination of earnestness and joy.

Skirts flying

Dance always seems to be an integral part of celebrations both secular and religious, and, in reflecting on my love for this, at times, perplexing and contradictory place, dance is one of the things that resonates the most.

Piña Dancers

A small stage set up under the trees; dancers, their handmade and unique costumes; energetic music; choreographed steps passed down through generations spirited me back to my childhood…

Mom and me

Let’s dance!

Read Full Post »

Feliz Año Nuevo a Todos

Read Full Post »

Every year for 20+ years, on Christmas Eve day, my older son and I would take the ferry across the San Francisco Bay for a day of soaking in the holiday sights of the City. No shopping was allowed, save for a new ornament for the tree, but there was lots of walking, and hot chocolate for him and cafe mocha for me… a much needed warm-up from that damp San Francisco cold.

This year, with son remaining on the East Coast with his wife’s family, I jumped at the opportunity to meet an old (long time, not aged!) friend in the City on Dec. 24. I didn’t even consider driving or taking the bus; the mode of transport was to be the Larkspur Ferry. The weather cooperated… a day’s break from the relentless gray and wet.

San Francisco Ferry Building

Nothing but blue skies do I see... at the San Francisco Ferry Building.

San Francisco Ferry Building ceiling

Looking up... San Francisco Ferry Building

Port of San Francisco

You are now leaving the Port of San Francisco

It really is a beautiful city…

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »