Valentine’s Day in Mexico is known as Día del amor y la amistad (Day of love and friendship) and I had the extremely good fortune to spend it in Teotitlán del Valle (one of my favorite places in the world) among friends at the thirtieth anniversary celebration of the restaurant, Tlamanalli.
Special garlands of papel picado fluttered above the heads of the 150-200 invited guests, centerpieces of jicalpextles filled with handmade sugar flowers, papel picado flags, and marshmallows wrapped in colored tissue paper graced the tables, and each place setting included a commemorative menu.
One of Teotitlán’s several bands was positioned just inside the door and played throughout the afternoon.
The open kitchen was a beehive of activity and, no doubt, had been for at least two weeks — in preparation for this auspicious anniversary.
Four courses honoring their Zapotec heritage were prepared with love and respect by world famous cocinera Abigail Mendoza Ruiz, her sisters Adelina, Marcelina, Maria Luisa, Rosario, Rufina, and her niece Diana.

Tamales: Chepil en totomoxtle, Mole amarillo con carne de conejo en hoja de milpa, and Frijol en totomoxtle.

Desserts: Nicuatolli de maiz azul con tinte de cochinilla, Flan Tlamanalli, Dulce de calabaza, Nieve de zapote negro, and Nieve de pétalos de rosa.
And, I got a bit of a chuckle when it was pointed out to me that it was the men in the family who were on washing and drying duty.
We were surprised we recognized so few of the attendees — only later discovering, thanks to this article, that many were dignitaries (not our usual crowd). However, we were more than delighted to have been seated at one of the tables in the section reserved for family members, several of whom we knew, and where conversations were in equal parts Spanish and Zapoteco, with only bits of English thrown into the mix — keeping us on our toes!
What an honor it was for us to be invited to share this special day with the Mendoza family — a day filled with love and friendship and very good food!
(For more photos and commentary, check out Chris’s blog post.)
Sounds wonderful! Thank you.
It was an incredibly special event!
The food looks so delicious. Great post.
Thank you. The food was riquisima!
A wonderful occasion and celebratory event. The pictures are beautiful…I can almost taste and smell the aromas of all that wonderful food!
Everything tasted even better than it looks!
WOW! is the the Abigail Mendoze Ruiz that was featured with Anthony Bourdain on his Mexico episode? Amazing!!!
Yes, the very same cocinera and restaurant! For 30 years, she, with the assistance and support of her sisters, has been a leading force in bringing appreciation and respect for Mexico’s traditional indigenous cooking.
Thanks so much for this post: as usual, a great story with beautiful pictures. Such great celebration with an amazing poetic menu: Nicuatolli de maiz azul con tinte de cochinilla, and Nieve de pétalos de rosa? Oh my God!!!
Thank you! Oaxaca not only continually amazes me with its food and art, but also with the poetry in the way it sees the world.
[…] was my first visit since the 30th anniversary celebration of Tlamanalli on February 14, […]