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Banner - close-up of eyes, nose, and tears running down cheeks.The Marcha del Color de la Sangre (Caravan of the Color of Blood), by the Triqui of San Juan Copala and their supporters, mentioned in my May 23 post, was prevented from entering the village.

Banner:  Face of mother and son and slogan:  Autonomia, justicia, paz, dignidad; Municipio Autónomo de San juan Copala.According to Angry White Kid, a National and International Day of Action in Solidarity with the Autonomous Municipality of San Juan Copala, Oaxaca, Mexico has been called for June 3.

Banner in the style of a huipil with text:  Apoyo al planton de mujeres y niños desplazados de San Juan Copala.

These banners graced the portales of the Government Palace during the encampment.

Banner - Triqui woman with slogan: Justicia y paz con dignidad; Municipio Autónomo San Juan Copala

Beautiful and poignant, I could never pass by without pausing…

Zócalo occupied

Propping up fallen trees isn’t the only activity on the Alameda… 3 tents under the Indian Laurel trees on the Alameda

Today, Sección 22 del Sindicato Nacional de Trabajadores de la Educación (the teachers’ union) is beginning an occupation of Oaxaca’s zócalo, Alameda, and several side streets.2 tents under the portales of the Governor's Palace According to a report in the Latin American Herald Tribune, Teachers Call for Strike in Southern Mexican State, the teachers are not demanding wage increases, instead focusing on social issues, including “better uniform allowances for students, computers in all of the state’s elementary schools and electricity in all schools.”  Privatization is also an issue.Green banner with text reading:  ¡No a la privatización de la educación!

This annual activity by the teachers’ union is extremely contentious.  Adding bold-face to the lines above will be my only comment on the subject.

However, the teachers aren’t the only people converging on the zócalo today…Poster: Marcha del Color de la Sangre; 23 de Mayo; Zocalo de Oaxaca a la Ciudad de MexicoThe displaced Triqui, who were driven out of their village of San Juan Copala after several years of political violence, have decided to return home, leading a march/caravan from Oaxaca to Mexico City and finally back to San Juan Copala.Triqui women and baby await the arrival of the march/caravan For more information, see the blog posting by Angry White Kid, The displaced decide to return to our community: Caravan of the Color of Blood and for background on their struggle for autonomy, see Repression, Impunity and Resistance in Oaxaca: One Year After the Copala Caravan Ambush.

Resurrection!

With a little help from its friends, the Indian Laurel has risen — albeit with a Marine-style haircut.Severely pruned Indian Laurel tree propped up with two cranes.

Let’s hope it can, indeed, be saved!

Oaxaca has been trapped in a low pressure trough that, according to Conagua, stretches from Chihuahua to Oaxaca and is bringing moisture from both the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.  It’s made for dramatic sunsets!

Pink clouds against purplish-blue sky

And, for the past three nights it’s brought spectacular sound and light shows… lightning streaking across the night sky in a 360 degree circle around the city; the rumbling of thunder in the distance and loud cracks when it hits close to home; torrential downpours and hail, even though it’s 80 degrees F (what’s up with that?); and hurricane force winds.

It was all too much for one of the massive 130+ year old Indian Laurel trees on the Alameda…

Trunk of fallen tree

El Instituto Estatal de Protección Civil was on the job, roping off the surrounding area with yellow and red caution tape.

Yellow caution tape blocking off area around fallen tree

Workers gathered to receive their instructions,

Yellow jacketed workers in front of fallen tree

environmentalist and artist Francisco Verástegui was interviewed by TV Azteca Oaxaca,

Man being interviewed by Azteca TV about fallen tree

a rope was placed around one of the limbs,

Rope around fallen tree limb

chain saws revved-up, as scavengers went about their work gathering twigs and small branches…

Man with chain saw and woman gathering small branches of fallen tree

and a truckload of the precious firewood departed the Alameda with a youthful escort.

Truck carrying chopped wood from fallen tree departs Alameda with three boys following behind

According to today’s news, this laurel tree wasn’t the only victim of these storms; other fallen trees crushed cars, power went out, and flooding occurred.   However, as they say, “ojala,” no human casualties have been reported.

Screen time

Are you…

Santo Domingo through chain-link fence.

Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Oaxaca

Guerreros baseball player at bat; fielder poised to catch ball seen through backstop netting.

Guerreros de Oaxaca vs. Los Olmecas de Tabasco

Giant Swallowtail butterfly against window screen.

Giant Swallowtail Butterfly in Oaxaca.

…inside or outside?

This review just popped up on my Google Mexico News:  Straight-shooting documentary details history of U.S.-Mexico relations,  should be required viewing for two distinct American audiences: U.S.-born Latinos who came to know the stoic faces of Mexican revolutionary icons solely from seeing them painted on the sides of Mexican-oriented grocery stores, and anyone who wants a peek at the roots of 100 years’ worth of U.S.-Mexico relations.

Iconic stencil of Emiliano Zapata on a building wall in Oaxaca

The 2-hour PBS documentary, The Storm That Swept Mexico,” premieres on May 15, 2011 in the USA.  I’ve got to get a friend to DVR it for me!

Twenty-four hours in the life of one of the more bizarre, and almost prehistoric-looking, residents of the terrace garden, a Stapelia gigantea

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Trying to identify this plant I did a Google search using the terms:  cactus, stinky, flies, star flower… because it definitely smells gross, has incredibly large zebra striped star-shaped flowers, and is a favorite of green bottle flies!

Today in Oaxaca…

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As Irving Berlin wrote, “Nothin’ but blue skies do I see.”

The Lacuna

In my attempt to begin to understand the people and culture of my new home, my reading has focused on all things Mexican… history, novels, cookbooks, travel writing, you name it!

Right now, I’m finishing Barbara Kingsolver’s historical novel, The Lacuna.  The story begins in 1929 Mexico, moves back and forth between Mexico and the USA, and ends in 1959.  It follows the protagonist, Harrison Shepherd, as he grows into adulthood, all the while navigating the turbulent political waters of these two countries.

Shepherd’s employment with artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo brings him into Leon Trotsky’s household in Coyoacan, Mexico City, where lively debates, as Trotsky answers Stalin’s slanders and formulates a transitional program to move from capitalism to socialism, help inform Shepherd’s own political development — and all in the household work tirelessly day and night (eventually unsuccessfully) to protect Trotsky from Stalin’s assassins.  It is “a plot that turns many times on the unspeakable breach—the lacuna—between truth and public presumption.”

And so, I was brought up short when I encountered yesterday’s demonstration by the Partido de los Comunistas Mexicanos…

Demonstration by the Partido de los Comunistas Mexicanos with red flags and posters of Karl Marx, Frederick Engels, Vladimir Lenin, and Josef Stalin.

Yes, that’s Josef Stalin’s portrait (far right) the demonstrators strung from the portales of Oaxaca’s Government Palace.  Hmmm… has word of Khrushchev’s revelations in 1956, at the 20th Congress of the Soviet Communist Party, not yet reached Oaxaca?   Or, do we have a perfect illustration of a lacuna between truth and public perception?

Of course, I didn’t need to come down here to see unspeakable breaches…

Ya just never know…

… what you will find around the corner.

Today’s drive up into the mountains and pine forests of Cuajimoloyas and Benito Júarez revealed…

Burned out car on mountain road

a burned out car…

Cow and her calf on the side of mountain road.

a cow and her calf.  And, down the mountain in Teotitlán del Valle…

Brass band on a street in Teotitlán del Valle

a brass band leading a wedding parade.

Working for a living…

I’ve been watching these guys from my terrace for well over a month…

2 men replacing brickwork on roof of School of Fine Arts, Oaxaca.

… and dodging the debris on the sidewalk, below.

Brick debris on sidewalk.

Late this afternoon, they were still up there as thunder began rumbling and rain began falling.  Finally, they packed up shop… and I was relieved!

What’s with the hoods?

More than one norte americano has asked, “What’s up with the KKK-like hoods?”  Ahh… a reference question for the librarian!

Purple hooded men carry a Jesus statue

They date back to 15th or 16th century Europe.  Members of lay religious charitable organizations (cofradías) would don the masks and hoods to guarantee anonymity and promote humility in their service. The Spanish brought the tradition to Mexico.

References:

The Procesión del Silencio departed from the Iglesia de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo and proceeded up the Alcalá to Gómez Farias, where it turned left and left again and down García Vigil to Independencia and then back up the Alcalá. Once the procession began, fellow blogger Chris (Oaxaca-The Year After) and I left the masses on the Alcalá and positioned ourselves on a wall overlooking García Vigil, for an unobstructed view.

Out of respect for what is being commemorated, tradition calls for participants and spectators to remain silent, save for the solemn drum beat and haunting sounds of a chirimia that herald the procession’s arrival and continue to play as the faithful from various neighborhoods and churches carry banners, crosses, and images of the crucified Jesus and his grieving mother through the streets of the city.

Prelude to a procession

Spectators, participants, and the ever-present vendors waiting for the Procesión del Silencio…

Dad holding baby girl

2 red hooded participants waiting.

Participants and spectators

Altar kids lined up
White hood participants waiting

Woman vendor holding basket of candy.

More to come…