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Archive for March, 2023

Many years ago, I attended a benefit sale at Galería La Mano Mágica to raise money to enable famed ceramicist Josefina Aguilar to have cataract surgery. My eyes were immediately drawn to a sculpture by her granddaughter, Fran Garcia Vásquez. I bought it and the Tehuana sculpture remains one of my most treasured pieces — though she has had her ups and downs.

The 8.2 earthquake in September 2017 resulted in a broken arm. It was a clean break and I was able to make the repair.

Alas, in June 2020 (due to my carelessness), she suffered more serious injuries — the extent of which were well beyond my abilities to mend. She and all her pieces were carefully cushioned in a box and there she lay through the worst of the pandemic and my move to Barrio de Jalatlaco.

It was only a month or so ago that it dawned on me to contact her creator, Fran Garcia Vásquez to ask if she could repair my sculpture — after all, she had the clay, paint, and expertise! She readily agreed and on March 13, I took my treasured Tehuana to the workshop she shares with family members in Ocotlán de Morelos (Av. Morelos #428). Five days later, the repair had been completed and she brought the sculpture to my home.

Fran Garcia Vásquez

When Fran unwrapped and placed the Tehuana in my hands, I must admit I became a little teary eyed. The sculpture is as good as new and looks proud and serene in her new home.

March 19 was Día de las Artesanas y los Artesanos in Mexico and the entire month of March is designated “Month of the Artisan.” I want to thank all of them deeply for carrying on, often renewing, and always enriching traditions with their own creative spirit.

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The day before yesterday, there was water, water everywhere and lots of drops to drink! It was the fourth Friday of Lent, Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.

Xocote restaurant on Calle Antequera, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

The Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament when a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. The request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.”  The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.

Laboratorio de Análisis Clínicos Qualis on 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atria of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, line up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, and schools for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free flavored waters.

Santa Hierba restaurant, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

By noon, masses of people had gathered in the atrium of the local church, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, where two long rows of tables, under the shade of the tented atrium, were lined with massive bowls filled with colorful aguas on offer. However, I preferred to avoid the crowds and wander through the streets of my Jalatlaco neighborhood.

Miscelánea Tepeaca, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

By the way, we are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), and tejate.

Espacio Ermita Arte y Diseño, Calle Hidalgo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

In the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!

Asador Bacanora, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.

After almost two hours, three aguas, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of gratitude for this Oaxacan tradition. I love this day and the message it imparts and the way it brings neighbors together.

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Should you find yourself in Llano Park early on a Friday morning during Lent, your senses will be assaulted with the cacophony of multiple bands (playing different tunes at the same time!), twirling marmotas, dancing monos, cheering students, young men loaded down with flowers, and young women dressed to the nines circling the statue of Benito Juárez.

Viernes del Llano (aka, Paseos Florales del Llano) is a fifty year old “only in Oaxaca” tradition held during the first five Fridays of Lent. Apparently, dating back to the 19th century, Oaxaca had a tradition, promoted by the church, of paying homage to women for the important role they play in the support of the family. The ritual died out, but was resurrected in the seventies by the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UABJO) to recover “religious and family values.”

The tradition was put on hold during the pandemic, but is back in full force. I was in Teotitlán del Valle for this year’s first paseo but, along with my neighbor, attended the second one on March 3rd featuring Preparatoria 6. It must be a very large school as there were 85 participants.

The winners (photos below) were announced in five different categories — that in English translated (approximately) to: Miss Photogenic, Miss Social Media, Godmother of Flowers, Best Cheerleader, and Godmother of Friday.

While it is very colorful, joyous, fun to observe, and is a lucrative day for flower vendors, this article (in Spanish) raises some obvious questions, including: Is this tradition or sexism? And, is this something educational institutions should be promoting?

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March 8 is International Women’s Day and in commemoration, photos of the women devils at San Martín Tilcajete’s Carnaval celebration. By the way, women devils are a recent and welcome innovation.

“The aim of the IWD 2023 #EmbraceEquity campaign theme is to get the world talking about Why equal opportunities aren’t enough. People start from different places, so true inclusion and belonging require equitable action.” (https://www.internationalwomensday.com/theme)

This afternoon, women and their supporters will take to the streets of Oaxaca not in celebration but to remember, commemorate, and raise awareness and respect for women raising their voices for equality and equity.

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After a three year absence (two due to the pandemic and last year due to a blockade), blogger buddy Chris and I finally returned to San Martín Tilcajete to experience the mayhem and magic of their Carnaval (aka: Shrove Tuesday, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras) celebration. We arrived in the late morning and, thanks to an invitation from our friend Gabriel Sosa of Matlacihua Arte, we were just in time to visit several devils preparing to take to the streets.

There is face paint involved.

And, there is body paint — a mixture of vegetable oil (with the possible addition of motor oil) and the same powdered paint used on the intricately decorated masks and alebrije the village is famous for.

Preparation is definitely a cooperative activity.

There are also cowbells worn to issue a clamorous invitation to residents and visitors to join the festivities.

Once the finishing touches are completed — cowbells tied around each devil’s waist and paint touch-ups — they leave the family compound.

Once out on the dusty streets (it is the dry season) of San Martín Tilcajete, they join with other devils issuing their clanging invitation throughout the village and, occasionally “tagging” a suspecting or unsuspecting bystander with a little of their oil based paint.

A word to the wise, if you go, don’t wear your favorite clothes and especially, don’t wear white!

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