If it’s Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), I must be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. I know there must be other villages that have colorful and moving celebrations, but the magic of San Antonino compels me to return year after year. Who can resist the spectacle outside the village panteón of watching el Señor del Burro be piled high with a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables and festooned with garlands of peppers and pan (bread)?
And, besides, each year there is always something a little new and different. To wit, in previous years parishioners presented their offerings with great pride to a committee of three or four women who formally received the donations, thanked the benefactors, and priced the items (for sale later in the day to benefit the work of the church). However, this year, in addition to offering blessings, it was the priest who interceded between the donors and the pricing committee to receive and express gratitude to each person for their contribution — be they grand or humble.
Once the young priest finished receiving the goods, he donned his ceremonial robes, offered prayers, and blessed everything (including my camera!) and everyone with holy water. This was the cue for palm fronds to be distributed to all and the altar boys and girls and disciples to assemble.
With the burro fully loaded, a team of 20+ extremely strong men hoisted the litter carrying the image of San Salvador atop the burro and, followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected, the journey to the church set off — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover. As the procession made its way to the church, the rhythmic sounds of the drum and horn leading the way were occasionally overpowered by shouts warning the men of topes (speed bumps) and low hanging telephone wires that must be navigated.
The route is at least a kilometer from the panteón to San Antonino Obispo church and yesterday the sun was blazing, with not a cloud in the sky. It is a grueling act of faith for the men who bear this massive burden. The final hurtle was making their way up the steps and under the arch leading to the church atrium, where a platform to place el Señor del Burro awaited.
By 1:00 PM, the bounty to be sold had been hand (head) carried or trucked to the display area set up on the opposite side of the church atrium and it was time for the outdoor mass to commence. Thus, it was also time for us to duck out to browse the accompanying expo-venta of fabulous San Antonino embroidered blouses and dresses, flor inmortal artisan creations, the amazing and ongoing work of José García Antonio, the blind potter, and lastly find our favorite empanada vendor in the maze of food and artisan stalls set up outside the atrium walls. Yummm…
You should also check out the Oaxaca-The Year After blog– rumor has it that Chris will be posting a video of the procession in the next day or two (or three).
Love the burro’s handsome halter….
Yes, he’s a well dressed burro!
Amazing blog as always and so good to catch a glimpse of you and a beso!. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Great to see you, too. 🙂
Fabulous photos and commentary! Almost (sigh) like being there! Thank you.
¡Muchisimas gracias! You must return. 😉
Wow! What a great post!! I would love to go with you next year. Hope to see you here in Teoti. Also, if it works for Michele, I would like to take a peek at #9 on the 1st or 2nd after the tenant leaves. Just a quick peek to have a mental image. More soon… Kali
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Palm Sunday in San Antonino is one of my favorite events each year.
Thank you for sharing this. I’m going to share it to my Instagram page if that’s alright? Oh how I wish I was there to join in Semana Santa but I’m in Santa Fe and it’s the next best thing to being in Mexico. 🙂
Yes, no problem and glad you like! Hoping to make it to Santa Fe for the Folk Art Market one of these years.
Wow Shannon – Thanks so much for your lovely photos of this most-wonderful of Palm Sundays in San Antonino. I went once and I’ll never forget it…..the humilde and love shown this day particularly. Your photo of the older man with his sweet offering of flowers really touched my heart.
Thanks for reminding us of the LOVE and Kindness emanating from the people of Oaxaca and Mexico!!
Thanks Sheri! That was one of my favorite photos, too. The day is always filled with warmth and sincerity.
Thanks so much for sharing, Susan. I would love to attend this celebration; it must be so touching.
Wow–your camera WAS blessed! 😉 So different than my neck of Mexico–thanks for sharing!
Well, not intentionally! I was attempting to take a photo of the priest, when, the camera and I were blessed. 😉
Thanks for bringing Palm Sunday to us!
De nada… Hope all is well with you!
Thanks for letting me see your Palm Sunday in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
You are most welcome! I can’t believe it’s been almost a year since I spent Semana Santa in Teo with Porfirio’s family.
Thanks for helping us know this area and its celebrations, year after year, Shannon. Your posts and photos are always great! Much appreciated, MTV
Thanks Michelle. 🙂 Oaxaca is SO inspiring!!!
[…] Exiting the “salida” door, I took a side street to avoid the zócalo and Alameda. By this time darkness had fallen, the uneven and potholed sidewalks had become even more treacherous, and so taking care not to also fall, I headed to Templo del Carmen de Abajo. Though not crowded, it too had separate doors marked for entering and exiting. And here, too, I ran into someone I knew — this time a new acquaintance from Palm Sunday in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. […]
Fantastic, colorful procession! How awesome that you got to see it!