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Archive for January, 2011

A musician friend recently told of hearing a young Oaxaqueña singer with a breathtakingly beautiful voice. And, the current front page of the Oaxaca Times announces, Alejandra Robles: the new oaxacan voice. I don’t know if this is who he was referring to, but in the words of the article, “her powerful voice reflects her training in Opera but her style is traditional Mexican with a rhythmic flare.”

Alejandra Robles - photo from Oaxaca Times


Alejandra Robles
is following in the immensely talented and extremely popular steps of Oaxaqueña vocalists, Lila Downs

Lila Downs - photo from Wikipedia

and Susana Harp, who have carved out successful careers celebrating their Oaxacan roots.

Susana Harp - photo from Wikipedia

I haven’t knowingly heard Alejandra Robles sing; I say “knowingly” because music is everywhere and often free… you just never know when and where you will round a corner to find it. This past November, from the comfort of my terrace, I had a ringside seat for a free Lila Downs concert a block away at the Plaza de la Danza. And, the previous May, I wandered down to the zócalo to hear Susana Harp performing (for free) with the Oaxaca State Band under the shade of the laurel trees.

And then there was this unknown singer…

Unknown singer at the Plaza de la Danza

In September, her beautiful clear and powerful voice drew me off the rooftop and over to the Plaza de la Danza where she and her talented band were performing to an audience of less than 100 people… part of events celebrating the Bicentennial. Regretfully, I was too shy to try out my limited Spanish and ask, “¿Quién es?” I searched the local newspapers and cultural calendars, but never was able to figure out who she was. Anyone know?

Update:  She is Natalia Cruz, a proud Zapoteca from Ixtaltepec in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.  Muchisimas gracias to one of my readers!

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Pozole… yummm!

Last night I had the pleasure of introducing a new friend to pozole, Oaxacan style. We walked over to La Gran Torta, my favorite restaurant for this pre-Columbian, hominy based meal in a bowl.

La Gran Torta photo montage

I always order the same dish (Why mess with success?), Pozole “Guerrero,” a caldo verde, with avocado, cabbage, radishes, cilantro, pork, and chicharrón. I push the chicharrón off to the side, but ohhh the flavor it adds! Wash it down with an ice cold Corona and for 70 pesos, you’ve got a perfect dinner on a winter’s night.

Oh, and my friend raved about the caldo rojo Pozole “Especial de la Casa.”

La Gran Torta is located at Porfirio Díaz No. 208 (between Matamoros and Morelos), Centro Histórico, Oaxaca.

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Another reason I love Oaxaca…

Trash collectors trucks with red flags

Yes, I know street blockades are inconvenient for drivers and I know the trade unions are not immune from the corruption that dominates politics here, but at least workers are not sitting on their hands doing nothing as austerity measures threaten to take away what little they have.

Protest sign with red flags on trash collector's truck.

According to signs posted on various trucks, trash collectors are demanding cancellation of a 300% increase in the cost of using the municipal dump, access to the dump 7 days a week, and the dismissal of the municipal services director.

Last fall massive protests against austerity measures spread across Europe, the Jasmine Revolution in Tunisia earlier this month was sparked by the self-immolation of a young college graduate who couldn’t find a job, and, as I write, hundreds of thousands of students, women, industrial workers, unemployed, and others are marching in Egypt in what is being called “a day of wrath against poverty.”

Workers in the USA should be taking notes…

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One of my favorite authors, Diane Ackerman, has written a new book, Dawn Light: Dancing with Cranes and Other Ways to Greet the Day. From the dust jacket: “Ackerman’s thrilling observations—of things ranging from cloud glories to the endangered whooping cranes of the book’s title—urge us to live in the moment, to wake up to nature’s everyday miracles.”

Yesterday, in the courtyard of a simple restaurant in Etla…

Peacocks and peahens in Etla

h/t chris

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Sunday, in the Plazuela de Carmen Alto, celebrations honoring the Christ of Esquipulas (Black Christ) were in full swing. I was awakened at 6 AM to the sound of fuegos artificiales (fireworks) and eventually drifted off to sleep after 11:30 PM, as fireworks’ explosions resumed.

Festivities lasted all day and I couldn’t resist heading up to the church courtyard to see what was happening.

When I arrived, seats in the shade were filled and a small crowd was gathered behind a barricade; a castillo, laying on its side in three parts, was being constructed; a teenage Oaxacan brass band, with the requisite tuba towering over the other instruments and their players, was waiting to play; and young dancers were performing with a combination of earnestness and joy.

Skirts flying

Dance always seems to be an integral part of celebrations both secular and religious, and, in reflecting on my love for this, at times, perplexing and contradictory place, dance is one of the things that resonates the most.

Piña Dancers

A small stage set up under the trees; dancers, their handmade and unique costumes; energetic music; choreographed steps passed down through generations spirited me back to my childhood…

Mom and me

Let’s dance!

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Renewal…

Ahhh… back in the warm embrace of Casita Colibrí.

A few days before leaving the Bay Area to return to Oaxaca, I spent a chilly, but crystal clear day in San Francisco with two old friends attending the wonderful, but crowded, Japanesque: The Japanese Print in the Era of Impressionism exhibit at the Palace of the Legion of Honor and having a delicious lunch at the Mandalay, a Burmese restaurant. A picture perfect day, I took the scenic route, through the Presidio, back to Mill Valley

Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Headlands from the San Francisco Presidio

… and was overwhelmed with appreciation for the perfection of the scene before me; a much needed tonic to the relentless wet, gray days and multiple circumstantial challenges I’d been experiencing. And so, I boarded the plane on Saturday feeling refreshed, with a sense of renewal in the opening days of 2011.

Once in Houston for a five hour (ugh!) layover, I settled into a comfy seat in a quiet corner of an airport restaurant for a long lunch. And then, I glanced up at the TV and was confronted with breaking news of the Tucson shootings. I wish I could say I was surprised, but I wasn’t… just sickened and incredibly saddened.

Most reasonable, thinking people teach their children that words have consequences; that it is irresponsible to cry “fire” when there is no fire in a crowded auditorium. And Buddhism teaches that “right speech” is the first principle of ethical conduct. Venomous rhetoric, from people like Glenn Beck and Sarah Palin, incites irrational fear and inflames unwarranted passions, especially amongst those who feel disaffected. Thus, I say I wasn’t surprised.

At last, I boarded the little Embraer… even more eager for my return to southern Mexico. However, the news there wasn’t good, either. The friend who picked me up at the airport relayed the news of more political killings in Oaxaca. No escape.

However, geckos are chirping, the pinks and oranges of the setting and rising sun against the mountains paint a magnificent mural, hummingbirds are flitting from one succulent flower spike to another, and I’ve got a mariposa beginning the arduous task of emerging from its pupa.

Butterfly pupa on plumbago.

The words from a 1960s era poster come to mind, “You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.”

Renewal…

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Feliz Año Nuevo a Todos

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