I opened the front gate this morning to find the sidewalk had morphed into an Estación de la Cruz.
Worshipers prayed, recited the appropriate devotions, and then slowly moved on.
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays, tagged Estaciones de la Cruz, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, ritual procession, Semana Santa, Via Crucis, Viernes Santo on April 22, 2011| Leave a Comment »
I opened the front gate this morning to find the sidewalk had morphed into an Estación de la Cruz.
Worshipers prayed, recited the appropriate devotions, and then slowly moved on.
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays, tagged Holy Thursday, Jueves Santo, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa on April 21, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Today was Jueves Santo (aka: Holy Thursday or Maundy Thursday).
Believers gathered to commemorate the Last Supper of Jesus. Tables are set up in church doorways selling pan bendito (3 buns for 5 pesos of blessed bread). And, where there are more than ten people, vendors gather….

Outside Iglesia de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo — I suspect her life hasn’t been half as sweet as the dulces she was selling.
A little sweetheart on his best behavior and waiting to process.
Would you buy pickled carrots or peppers from this woman?
The rains came and the capas del agua vendors miraculously appeared outside Santo Domingo.
After visiting the prescribed 7 churches, I rewarded myself with my (hopefully, not last) supper — a flor de calabaza and quesillo empanada, cooked to order. Yummm….
Posted in Labor, Protests, tagged blockade, demonstrations, huelga, Mexico, Oaxaca, protest, strike, taxis on April 6, 2011| 1 Comment »
I sure hope no one needs a taxi in el centro today.
Double-parked on Independencia and lined up for blocks on side streets, empty taxis sit…
A protest against “pirate” taxis.
By the way, pink taxis, lavender taxis, and green taxis were lined up on other streets, which would have added more color to this entry. But, alas, I violated the first rule of photography: Always carry an extra battery! I know, my feeble excuse of, I’d only gone out to buy velcro adhesive for my mosquito screen door project, is no excuse.
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, tagged Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca on April 1, 2011| 4 Comments »
Today, the fourth Friday of Lent, is Día de la Samaritana, also known as el Día de las Aguas, and a uniquely Oaxacan celebration. It is inspired by the Biblical story of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus. And so, here in Oaxaca churches, schools, and businesses offer passersby free cups of horchata, aguas frescas, and some, even ice cream.
Decorations began going up around town yesterday…
Sidewalk stands are set up, some more elaborate…
And, what does one do with the empty (and not-so-empty) cups?
Decorate a window sill, of course!
Posted in Nature & Science, tagged full moon, La Luna, Mexico, Moon, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on March 20, 2011| 3 Comments »
Last night’s Supermoon from Casita Colibrí’s terrace…
And, happy Vernal Equinox to all!
Posted in Holidays, tagged balloon sellers, Día del Amor y la Amistad, Mexico, Oaxaca, Valentine's Day on February 14, 2011| 1 Comment »
Oaxaca loves Valentine’s Day! Rojo is the color of the day… red tablecloths cover the tables of restaurants under the portales… red shirts, sweaters, skirts, and shoes capture the eye. The Zócalo is teeming with people… young men carefully carrying cone wrapped roses for their sweethearts, girls clutching their regalos… stuffed animals, bouquets of flowers, and balloons.
And speaking of balloons…
Posted in History, Holidays, tagged calendas, celebrations, Happy Birthday Oaxaca, history, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photos on April 26, 2010| Leave a Comment »
Oaxaca is old! As a cursory glance at Mixtec and Zapotec history and their descendants will tell, this valley has been settled for thousands of years.
However, yesterday the city celebrated its founding as a colonial city, marking the 478 years since Spanish settlers (their bloody way paved by Hernán Cortés and his conquistadores) successfully petitioned the Queen of Spain for a land grant of 1 square league. The colonists had already established their own town on the site of Huaxyacac, renamed it Antequera (after an old Roman city in Spain) and received a Royal Charter from King Charles I of Spain. However, Cortés had successfully gotten the entire Valley of Oaxaca (hundreds of thousands of acres) declared as his own private marquisate and, his greed knowing no bounds, kept trying to evict the colonial townspeople. By obtaining the queen’s charter, this end-run around Cortés insured the rights of the townspeople to the land. Thus, April 25th continues to be celebrated as Oaxaca’s birthday.
Saturday night I had a ringside seat on my terrace for fuegos artificiales (fireworks) — first emanating from the vicinity of the ex-convento of Santo Domingo (6 blocks to the NE), followed by those sent up into the night sky from La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (AKA: my backyard). Sunday morning, I was awakened at 6:05 to the sounds of Lady Soledad’s bells chiming — more musical than the usual clang-clang-clang — for a full 5 minutes, along with the rat-ta-tat-tat of firecrackers, adding exclamation points!
I went down to the Zócalo a little before 6pm — the calenda (parade) hadn’t yet arrived, but the place was teeming with people (mostly all Mexican). Payasos (clowns) were in abundance, but the big hit was a bungee cord contraption suspended above a trampoline. A guy would harness a kid to the cord, jump up and down on the trampoline with his arms around said kid and once momentum was achieved, let go and send the kid sling-shot-like up into the sky. Yikes, the way several of the kids were flaying around, I thought someone was going to break a back.
For the 3rd day in a row, temperatures continued to be in the high 90s, unseasonably hot even for Oaxaca so, for the second day in a row, I hit the ice cream shop — this time for a scoop each of peach and banana (in a cup, no cone this time… less messy as it melted) — a great combination! The calenda eventually arrived with all the usual suspects — several brass bands, municipal honchos, dancers in costume, monos (giant puppets — see above photo), etc. Did I mention, it was really hot? There I was, dripping wet, confining myself to the shade of the Zócalo’s 135+ year old towering Indian laurel trees, and eating ice cream when these participants (of all ages, I might add) had walked, played, and danced their way under the blazing sun for 13 blocks from Llano Park!