View From Casita Colibrí

If you don’t like clanging bells, fireworks bursting in air, and navigating procession-blocked streets (at all hours of the day and night), you might want to avoid being in Oaxaca in December. The month heralds seemingly round-the-clock joyous, sometimes solemn, and mostly noisy celebrations. This month, honoring the feast days of the Virgins of Juquila, Guadalupe, and Soledad elicits some of the most enthusiastic, lengthy, and loud festivities of the year.

December 8 marks Día de la Virgen de Juquila — the first of the three virgins being celebrated this month. Observances began weeks ago as pilgrims began their peregrinations to her tiny Chatino village of Santa Catarina Juquila. And, in Oaxaca city, processions began filling the streets, cohetes (rockets) began exploding, and church bells sounded announcing special misas (masses).

Next on the on the calendar is the more widely known date of December 12, honoring la Virgen de Guadalupe, aka, Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of México. However, the celebrating has already begun and besides fireworks, processions, and church bells chiming, professional photographers set up “Guadalupe grottos” outside Oaxaca’s Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe so, after being blessed inside the church, parents can have their little boys and girls, dressed in traditional traje (costume), photographed. Once finished, all can partake in the rows upon rows of food stalls, carnival rides, and puestos selling toys, Santa hats, Christmas lights.

Last, but not least for Oaxaqueños, is December 18, the feast day of the much loved and revered, Queen of Oaxaca, La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (Virgin of Solitude). Festivities with special religious rites, processions, and fireworks usually begin in early December, overlapping with Juquila and Guadalupe. Soledad’s celebration culminates with hundreds of her devotees camping out in the atrium of her church, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, on the night of December 17 — with musical entertainment throughout the night, afternoon cultural performances the next day, and several outdoor masses from before dawn to nightfall on the 18th. Food stalls take over the stairs leading to the Basílica and the street below (Independencia) is closed for several blocks with carnival rides and stalls selling more sweets and savories, religious tchotchkes, clothing, and much more. It’s lively, crowded, and loud!

I’m still in el norte and all is quiet. While it makes for a better night’s sleep, I’m missing the raucous and joy-filled cacophony that fills Oaxaca’s days and nights in December.