No, I didn’t have to ford a raging river… just make a harrowing 5+ second dash, while dodging speeding cars in an effort to cross Calzada de la República, which used to be a river that formed the natural boundary between Oaxaca and the village of Jalatlaco.
Today, Jalatlaco (“sandy embankment” in the Aztec language of Nauhatl) is a barrio (neighborhood) of Oaxaca, but República and its traffic continue to provide a daunting barrier and some colorful street art.
However, once beyond República, the atmosphere changes. Cobblestones from the old riverbed line the streets and slow the pace;
color and foliage, not to mention crowns, add to the character;
and stone walls line the narrow streets, shielding the neighborhood from the bustle beyond.
By the way, my breakfast of huevos divorcíados at El Biche Pobre was colorful and delicious!






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